ALL ABOUT MOULD PART 5

                                              

Testing or Sampling for Mould

How to Collect Samples and Test for Mould or Bacteria

Laboratory results are only as good as the sample. The sample type taken generally depends on the purpose of the investigation and the importance of accurate results cannot be overstated: Test results change people’s lives. There’s not much point using a lab analysis report to guide your microbial remediation decisions or recommendations unless the sample collected for analysis was truly representative of the total building contamination. The aim should always be to collect the most representative sample possible.

How to safely collect and send samples for Mould testing services:

·         Cut 2-3 inches of clear scotch tape; avoid touching the sticky side by holding the piece of tape by the edges.

·         Press the tape gently onto the surface you wish to test for Mould growth.

·         Peel the tape off surface holding the tape by the edges only.

·         Apply sticky side of tape to the inside of the ziplock bag; do not fold the tape.

·         Close bag and label the sample appropriately (put only one sample per bag).

·         Fill the chain of custody form and send it together with the samples to a Mould and Bacteria Consulting Laboratory in the USA if you can locate one, or to Canada.

How to collect bulk samples for Mould testing

·         Wear suitable gloves.

·         Cut a small piece (about 4 square inches) of the suspect material (e.g., carpet, drywall, wallpaper, wood); taking care not to disturb the Mould.

·         Place the sample inside a clean plastic bag (e.g., ziplock).

·         Close the bag and label the sample appropriately.

·         Fill the chain of custody form and send it together with the samples to the laboratory.

How to collect swab samples for Mould or bacteria testing:

Dry swabs are recommended for wet surfaces and wet swabs for dry surfaces.

·         Wear suitable gloves.

·         Remove swab from tube (If using swabs with a wetting agent, drain most of it on the sides of the tube before sampling).

·         Swab the test surface, rolling the swab lightly back and forth. For quantification of the amount of Mould or bacteria on the test surface, swab a known surface area (for example, 100 square centimeters).

·         After swabbing, insert the swab in the tube – Firmly close cap and label the sample appropriately.

·         Fill the chain of custody form and send it together with the samples to the laboratory.

How to collect air samples for culture analysis:

Settle Plate Samples

·         Select suitable agar media for sampling.

·         Place the plates at table-top level and remove the lids.

·         Leave the plates open for 0.5-4 hours.

·         Cover the plates and secure the lids with clear tape.

·         Label the plates with appropriate information.

·         Place the samples in a cooler/box ensuring the samples are not in contact with ice packs (to avoid having the samples frozen).

·         Fill the chain of custody form and send it together with the samples to us for incubation and identification of the resulting Mould or bacteria.

Key Points to Remember:

·         Use a permanent marker to label the samples.

·         Complete a chain of custody form (sample submittal form) with the relevant information.

·         For air samples, record the flow rate and sampling time or the total air volume collected on the form.

·         Secure the samples and the chain of custody form in a shipping container.

·         For samples that do not require culturing, refrigeration is usually not needed when submitting the samples to the laboratory for analysis.

·         When collecting samples, download and fill out an Analysis Request Form.

Turnaround time for all culture analyses is 10-14 days.

Hidden Mould

Suspicion of hidden Mould

You may suspect hidden Mould if a building smells Mouldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mould may be hidden in places such as the back side of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden Mould include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).

To find hidden Mould systematically, use the following Mould investigation steps:

1.       Use do it yourself Mould test kits from a large hardware or home improvement store to Mould test the air of each room, attic, basement, crawl space, and garage, and to do an outdoor Mould control test. If self-observation of Mould test growth results or Mould lab analysis reveals higher than outdoor Mould growth in a particular room or area, you should concentrate and target your in-depth Mould investigation in such areas.

2.       Use do it yourself Mould test kits to Mould test the air flow out of each heating/cooling duct register. If self-observation of Mould test growth results or Mould lab analysis reveals higher than outdoor Mould growth in a particular duct air flow test, you should inspect that duct or ducts and the heating/cooling equipment for likely Mould infestation therein.

3.       Use household mixture solutions like DampProtectT, WallProtectT, and DryRotT sensors to find elevated moisture and dry rot areas hidden inside ceilings, walls, and floors because the presence of elevated internal moisture and dry rot inside building materials makes it likely that there are also elevated levels of hidden Mould growth therein.

4.       Use a hidden moisture meter to scan the entire surfaces of all walls, ceilings, and floors for elevated levels of moisture, which would thus facilitate internal Mould growth.

5.       In drywall ceilings and walls, cut out and remove numerous, widespread one inch by one inch drywall squares. Examine each ceiling or wall sample square for Mould growth inside the drywall material and on the rear (internal ceiling or wall area). Use a flashlight to look inside the holes for Mould growth. Sniff the internal ceiling or wall air for Mould. Draw air samples out of each hole with a fan blowing internal air onto the sticky surface of a Mould test kit.

6.       Take out the drawers of all kitchen and bathroom cabinets and of all furniture with drawers to examine the insides of the cabinets, as well as the bottom, and backside of each drawer, for hidden Mould infestation.

7.       Remove kitchen and bathroom cabinets in their entirety to examine for possible Mould growth at the bottom and backside of the cabinets, as well as on and in the wall behind the cabinets and the floor beneath the cabinets.

8.       Use a digital hygrometer (about $30 from a large hardware or home improvement store) to check the humidity level of each room, attic, crawl space, basement and garage. If a room or area has indoor humidity in excess of 60%, there is likely to be hidden Mould growth somewhere in such a room or area. Find it by careful visual inspection, and by utilizing the other Mould investigation tips provided in this hidden Mould list.

9.       Examine all bathroom fixtures, kitchen fixtures, laundry fixtures, and all water supply and sewer lines for signs of leaks, which, if existent, would likely indicate the presence of Mould growth inside adjacent wet building materials. Inspect walls and ceilings for water stains, sagging areas, and soft areas.

10.   In the attic, pull up insulation to inspect for hidden Mould growth.

There is always the option of hiring professionals in this field to find and eliminate hidden Mould, particularly if invasive inspection techniques are needed to look into the area. Invasive inspection techniques usually involve removing parts of surfaces to look behind them for hidden Mould.

If you are doing invasive inspection yourself, you must wear protective equipment. This is because there is a good chance you could trigger the release of large amounts of Mould spores into the air. Invasively inspecting for hidden Mould also includes lifting carpets to check for Mould underneath, looking behind paneling, looking behind ceiling tiles, looking under wallpaper, looking inside air ducts and moving furniture or insulation to check behind.

Removing Mould from Glass and Windows

The growth of Mould on standalone glass objects, window sills, frames, glass and tracks is a common

problem in many of the homes built today. The presence of Mould growth on window surfaces can easily be controlled through regular housekeeping and building maintenance and does not adversely impact the air quality unless the growth is extensive and not handled properly. It is often more of an aesthetics concern to homeowners than a public health issue. Stachybotrys, the Mould spore typically referred to as "black Mould" is rarely found on window surfaces, as the growth conditions on window surfaces (frequent changes in moisture and low organic food sources) are typically not suitable for supporting Stachybotrys growth.

Mould on Glass: Mouldy glass takes away from the simple beauty of a vase of flowers or an open window. Glass is a nonporous surface, which means the Mould growth is limited and will not ruin your item. Household cleaners, such as vinegar, clean Mould away, leaving surfaces squeaky clean. Prevent further Mould growth by detecting any sources of moisture such as rain or condensation.

·         Put on rubber gloves and a face mask before removing Mould. This protects you from breathing in Mould spores and protects your skin in case the glass breaks.

·         Fill a spray bottle with white vinegar. Spray the glass with the vinegar; allow it to sit for one minute before washing it away.

·         Wet a sponge in warm, soapy water. Wring the excess water from the sponge. Scrub away the Mould. Rinse the soap from the sponge. Wipe away the soap from the glass.

·         Dry the glass with paper towels.

·         Spritz the glass again with a light spray of vinegar. Wipe away the vinegar with paper towels.

Clearing Mould from Windows: Discovering Mould on windows is not uncommon if condensation is a problem. However, by following a few simple steps, you can easily find and rectify the cause as well as prevent it from reoccurring.

Begin the process of removing Mould on windows by identifying every point where it exists. Examine the glass and frames of the windows thoroughly to make sure that you know where every instance of Mould occurs. This makes it easier to remove it all at the same time. Do not overlook the inner surface of the window frames; open the windows and check inside thoroughly.

If, when you come to clean the Mould on windows, the panes and frames are dry, begin by using a vacuum cleaner to remove any loose spores. Undertake this process when the window is open to allow the particles of Mould an escape route. Slowly and steadily run the nozzle of the hose over the glass and the frames to make sure you cover every section. Once complete, clean the vacuum nozzle with a cloth dampened with vinegar.   

Avoid using a vacuum if the windows are wet. Instead, put on a pair of protective gloves and use a cloth that has been dampened with tepid water to wipe the panes and frames of the windows. At this stage, your action should only be to remove the excess of the Mould on windows. Avoid rubbing too hard to avoid forcing Mould spores into the wood of the window frame. Regularly rinse the cloth in clean water. 

Once the excess Mould has been removed, you will be in a better position to determine the full extent of the problem. Where the problem is relatively minor, spray some white vinegar onto the windows and leave it for a few minutes as you gather some baking soda onto a clean cloth. This can then be used to rub away the Mould as the baking soda will act as an abrasive and the vinegar will kill the spores. If the problem is more extensive, dilute some fungicide in a bucket of water in accordance with the instructions and use this to clean the glass and frames of the windows.

After removing the Mould, dry the surface thoroughly with a cloth and inspect it to ensure that there are no final traces of Mould. If so, repeat the cleaning process again.

Prevent Mould from returning by keeping the windows condensation-free. This can be achieved by wiping condensation away with a dry cloth. Wherever possible, keep the window ventilated so that air can circulate and prevent the area from becoming damp.

A fact sheet on controlling Mould growth on window surfaces is available online.

Clearing Mould from Tiles

Removing Mould from tiles and grout: You'll often see Mould growing on tiles in places like the bathroom. This growth can easily be cleaned from the non-porous surfaces of tiles.

Begin by scrubbing the Mould off of the tiles and grout. You should use a scrubbing brush along with a household cleaning product or Mould killing product. There are also commercial tile or grout cleaners you can buy. After this you'll probably still find Mould stains left on the grout. You can use bleach to fade these stains away. Before you use the bleach you should spot test it to make sure that it won't discolor your tiles. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the bleach.

Apply the bleach to the grout and leave it sit for about 10 minutes. Instead of chlorine bleach you can use hydrogen peroxide if you like, or buy a commercial product that contains oxygen bleach. If you have a septic system it's better to use oxygen bleach than chlorine bleach. Another alternative is to use baking soda. Mix it with water to create a paste and then use a toothbrush to scrub it onto the grout.

If you find the stain remains on the grout after bleaching then repeat the process. Afterwards rinse the bleach off thoroughly with water. If the stains won't go away you can try using paper towels soaked in bleach. Saturate paper towels in bleach and then stick them to the grout where there are stains. Give it some time and this should fade away the Mould stains on the grout.

Grout Sealer: You can also apply grout sealer to the grout. This will protect you from any small amount of Mould left on the grout and also help to prevent Mould growing in the future. You also have the option of replacing the grout all together. First you'll need to scrape out the old grout. You can use a flat head screwdriver for this. You can buy new grout mixture from the hardware store and apply it yourself. Sealing the new grout with grout sealer afterwards will give you even more Mould protection.

How to Get Mould Off of Marble Tiles:

Mould can grow on dirty marble tiles, since dirt is an organic material and provides food for the spores. When cleaning Mould from marble tiles, though, you have to use caution because marble is a very sensitive natural stone.

Using Neutral Cleaners: Dry your marble tiles. Mould can only grow if your surface is covered in some kind of moisture, so eliminate the moisture using heat. Use a heater, high-powered fans or a dehumidifier. Don’t use towels to dry the marble, as they will prove ineffective and may even spread the Mould around.

Scrub your marble tiles using a neutral cleaner and a dust mop for floors and a soft cloth for other marble surfaces. In home supply stores, you’ll find these products marketed as neutral pH cleaners. These cleaners safely remove the dirt from your marble; without dirt, the Mould has no nutrient source. Use a toothbrush or miniature scrubbing brush with the cleanser to reach between the grout lines. Allow the floor to air dry.

Using Chemical Cleaners: Put on a pair of rubber gloves and a breathing mask. Mix a gallon of water with 1/2 cup of bleach or ammonia or hydrogen peroxide. Do not mix any of these ingredients under any circumstances, but choose only one, if the neutral cleaner fails to do the job. Bleach is the most effective, but peroxide and ammonia are safe and natural.

Apply the liquid solution to the tile surface using a clean dust mop or soft cloth and scrub the entire surface. Use a toothbrush or mini-scrubbing brush to get between grout lines. Allow the floor to air dry.

Caution:

1.       Never mix bleach with ammonia.

2.       Do not use vinegar on marble tiles. While vinegar is often useful for killing Mould, the acetic acid can weaken or dissolve the natural stone.

Mould on Stainless Steel

Stachybotrys chartarum, or black Mould, typically appears as a black- and dark-green slime that carries a powerful musty odor. When you find black Mould near a sink, the problem may be the result of a leak in the plumbing since black Mould requires large amounts of moisture in order to grow. A kitchen is thus its favorite breeding ground. If left unchecked−you go on a 30 day vacation with your dishwasher full of used crockery, cutlery and other steel implements−you will find a particularly disagreeable stench in your kitchen that may pervade most of your house. If you have a tiny leak in the plumbing in your kitchen, it will grow into a big puddle over time. Well, buckle up to recover!

·         Put on rubber gloves and a breathing mask before approaching the area. Remove everything from the Mouldy area, including cleaning supplies, cooking utensils and dirty dishes. Place Mouldy objects in black trash bags, seal the bags and dispose of them outdoors.

·         Inspect the area to confirm the cause of the water damage, such as a leaky pipe beneath the sink; turn off the water supply before proceeding.

·         Close any doors and windows. Black Mould requires containment in order to prevent the fungus from spreading. For a more thorough containment, you can cover any doors in plastic sheeting, sold in home improvement stores. Place a strong electric space heater or a dehumidifier in front of the sink and turn it on until the sink area dries completely.

·         Vacuum the area with a hose attachment to remove the black Mould from the surface. Immediately take the vacuum outdoors and thoroughly clean the filter with detergent and water. For a vacuum that uses a bag, throw it away immediately.

·         Disinfect the sink area using a mixture of 1 part bleach and 16 parts water, or 1cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water. While still wearing your rubber gloves, spray the solution over all affected areas and scrub with a firm sponge. If cleaning a stainless steel sink, use an oxygen bleach, because standard household bleach contains sodium hypochlorite, and chlorides can react with stainless steel.

·         Rinse the area with a damp sponge to remove the bleach, and use your dehumidifier or your heater to dry the area again. Do not stop until the entire area is completely dry.

·         Repair the problem that caused the Mould buildup in the first place. Tighten any pipes, repair any leaky faucets or patch any roof leaks causing water damage in your home. Turn the water back on if you previously turned it off, and keep a close eye on the sink area. If Mould returns, contact a professional remediator.

Mould Remediation/Cleanup Methods

The purpose of Mould remediation is to correct the moisture problem and to remove Mouldy and contaminated materials to prevent human exposure and further damage to building materials and furnishings. Porous materials that are wet and have Mould growing on them may have to be discarded because Moulds can infiltrate porous substances and grow on or fill in empty spaces or crevices. This Mould can be difficult or impossible to remove completely.

As a general rule, simply killing the Mould, for example, with biocide is not enough. The Mould must be removed, since the chemicals and proteins, which can cause a reaction in humans, are present even in dead Mould.

A variety of cleanup methods are available for remediating damage to building materials and furnishings caused by moisture control problems and Mould growth. The specific method or group of methods used will depend on the type of material affected. Some methods that may be used include the following:

·         Wet Vacuum: Wet vacuums are vacuum cleaners designed to collect water. They can be used to remove water from floors, carpets, and hard surfaces where water has accumulated. They should not be used to vacuum porous materials, such as gypsum board. Wet vacuums should be used only on wet materials, as spores may be exhausted into the indoor environment if insufficient liquid is present. The tanks, hoses, and attachments of these vacuums should be thoroughly cleaned and dried after use since Mould and Mould spores may adhere to equipment surfaces (ibid).

·         Damp Wipe: Mould can generally be removed from nonporous surfaces by wiping or scrubbing with water and detergent. It is important to dry these surfaces quickly and thoroughly to discourage further Mould growth. Instructions for cleaning surfaces, as listed on product labels, should always be read and followed.

·         High-Efficiency Particulate Air Vacuum: High-Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) vacuums are recommended for final cleanup of remediation areas after materials have been thoroughly dried and contaminated materials removed. HEPA vacuums also are recommended for cleanup of dust that may have settled on surfaces outside the remediation area. Care must be taken to assure that the filter is properly seated in the vacuum so that all the air passes through the filter. When changing the vacuum filter, remediators should wear respirators, appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), gloves, and eye protection to prevent exposure to any captured Mould and other contaminants. The filter and contents of the HEPA vacuum must be disposed of in impermeable bags or containers in such a way as to prevent release of the debris.

·         Disposal of Damaged Materials: Building materials and furnishings contaminated with Mould growth that are not salvageable should be placed in sealed impermeable bags or closed containers while in the remediation area. These materials can usually be discarded as ordinary construction waste. It is important to package Mould-contaminated materials in this fashion to minimize the dispersion of Mould spores. Large items with heavy Mould growth should be covered with polyethylene sheeting and sealed with duct tape before being removed from the remediation area. Some jobs may require the use of dust-tight chutes to move large quantities of debris to a dumpster strategically placed outside a window in the remediation area (ibid).

·         Use of Biocides: The use of a biocide, such as chlorine bleach, is not recommended as a routine practice during Mould remediation, although there may be instances where professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immuno-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area, as a background level of Mould spores comparable to the level in outside air will persist. However, the spores in the ambient air will not cause further problems if the moisture level in the building has been corrected.

·         Biocides are toxic to animals, humans, as well as to Mould. If you choose to use disinfectants or biocides, always ventilate the area, using outside air if possible, and exhaust the air to the outdoors. When using fans, take care not to extend the zone of contamination by distributing Mould spores to a previously unaffected area. Never mix chlorine bleach solution with other cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia because this may produce highly toxic vapors and create a hazard to workers.

·         Some biocides are considered pesticides, and some states require that only registered pesticide applicators apply these products in schools, commercial buildings, and homes. Make sure anyone applying a biocide is properly licensed where required (ibid).

·         Fungicides are commonly applied to outdoor plants, soil, and grains as a powder or spray. Examples of fungicides include hexachlorobenzene, organomercurials, pentachlorophenol, phthalimides, and dithiocarbamates.

Do not use fungicides developed for outdoor use in any indoor application, as they can be extremely toxic to animals and humans in an enclosed environment.

When you use biocides as a disinfectant or a pesticide, or as a fungicide, you should use appropriate PPE, including respirators. Always, read and follow product label precautions. It is a violation of Federal (EPA) law to use a biocide in any manner inconsistent with its label direction.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Any remediation work that disturbs Mold and causes Mold spores to become airborne increases the degree of respiratory exposure. Actions that tend to disperse Mold include: breaking apart Moldy porous materials such as wallboard; destructive invasive procedures to examine or remediate Mold growth in a wall cavity; removal of contaminated wallpaper by stripping or peeling; using fans to dry items or ventilate areas.

The primary function of personal protective equipment (PPE) is to prevent the inhalation and ingestion of Mold and Mold spores and to avoid Mold contact with the skin or eyes.

Skin and Eye Protection

Don Tyvek coveralls with attached hood and booties or similar clothing. Gloves protect the skin from contact with Mold, as well as from potentially irritating cleaning solutions. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended. The glove material should be selected based on the type of substance/ chemical being handled. If you are using a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or PVC. If you are using a mild detergent or plain water, ordinary household rubber gloves may be used.

To protect your eyes, use properly fitted goggles or a full face piece respirator. Goggles must be designed to prevent the entry of dust and small particles. Safety glasses or goggles with open vent holes are not appropriate in Mold remediation.

Respiratory Protection

Respirators protect cleanup workers from inhaling airborne Mold, contaminated dust, and other particulates that are released during the remediation process. Either a half mask or full face piece air-purifying respirator can be used. A full face piece respirator provides both respiratory and eye protection. Respirators used to provide protection from Mold and Mold spores must be certified by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH). More protective respirators may have to be selected and used if toxic contaminants such as asbestos or lead are encountered during remediation. Wear an N-99 respirator or an N-95 at the very least.

Individuals who use respirators must be properly trained, have medical clearance, and be properly fit tested before using a respirator. In addition, use of respirators requires the employer to develop and implement a written respiratory protection program, with worksite-specific procedures and elements. The possibility of oxygen deficiency or other environments immediately dangerous to life or health must be considered.

Protective Clothing

While conducting building inspections and remediation work, individuals may encounter hazardous biological agents as well as chemical and physical hazards. Consequently, appropriate personal protective clothing (i.e., reusable or disposable) is recommended to minimize cross-contamination between work areas and clean areas, to prevent the transfer and spread of Mold and other contaminants to street clothing, and to eliminate skin contact with Mold and potential chemical exposures.

Disposable PPE should be discarded after it is used. They should be placed into impermeable bags, and usually can be discarded as ordinary construction waste. Appropriate precautions and protective equipment for biocide applicators should be selected based on the product manufacturer's warnings and recommendations (e.g., goggles or face shield, aprons or other protective clothing, gloves, and respiratory protection).

If not wearing Tyvek coveralls with a hood or booties, do use a disposable hair cover and disposable shoe coverings. Also use a hard hat.

Half-Face Respirator – Half-face respirators are appropriate for Mould removal jobs involving no more than 100 square feet of Mouldy materials.

Full-Face Respirator – Full-face respirators are appropriate for Mould removal jobs involving more than 100 square feet of Mouldy materials.

Fig. 14    Cleaning while wearing N-95 respirator, gloves and goggles            Image: EPA

Remediation guidelines for building materials that have or are likely to have Mould growth are designed to protect the health of cleanup personnel and other workers during remediation. These guidelines are based on the size of the area impacted by Mould contamination. Professionals may prefer other remediation methods, and certain circumstances may require different approaches or variations on the approaches described below. If possible, remediation activities should be scheduled during off-hours when building occupants are less likely to be affected. DIY work should be limited to an area not exceeding 1 sq m (10 sq ft) or less. Larger areas should be left to professionals in this field.

Clean up work should not be assigned to persons recovering from recent surgery, immune-suppressed people, or people with chronic lung diseases (e.g., asthma, hypersensitivity pneumonitis, and severe allergies).                    

Chose Your Remediator Carefully

There is no question that a high-quality active air purifier can help control Mould issues but it will NOT remediate against them. You can use the best air filters and purifiers and they will never solve the problem if you continue to have water intrusion into your home that increases the humidity and feeds the growth of the Mould. You will need to stop the water at its source and carefully remove and clean the Mould infested materials. While this may superficially seem an easy task, it is far from true.

You need to fine a qualified expert and professional that is certified by one of the agencies below. I would also suggest getting several bids for the work. You can find a contractor or professional listings on the following sites.

·         IICRC (Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification).

·         ACAC (American Council for Accredited Certification)—a certifying body that is third-party accredited.

·         The IAQA (Indoor Air Quality Association)—a membership organization with no certification program (the ACAC handles this by agreement).

·         RIA (Restoration Industry Association).

·         NORMI (National Organization of Remediators and Mould Inspectors).

Fig. 15                                                                                                                                                                                                    Image: safetypartnersltd.com

Both the IICRC and NORMI are certifying organizations for Mould remediation, but the IICRC certification is perhaps the most widely used. Keep in mind that a mere certification or listing may not be enough. Also evaluate the remediator's qualifications and insurance (liability as well as workman's comp). With the ACAC, there are a few different levels.          

If the damaged area exceeds 10 sqm (100 sq ft), please refer to this site for comprehensive instructions on how to protect yourself from infection.               

Tips and techniques to tackle Mould

Black Mould usually only occurs on items that have remained or been wet several times and that contain cellulose. This includes such things as gypsum board, cardboard, ceiling tiles, wood and insulation. Mould grows rapidly and it will likely leave anything that is porous damaged in the process. If you have Mould on cellulose products, the best move you can make is to call for professional for help.

·         If the black Mould in your home is not out of control (<1 sqm, 10 sq ft) and you have found it before it has penetrated any surface, and any cause of standing water or dampness has been repaired, you can take care of it yourself. If it has permeated the walls, ceiling or floor of your home, it is a serious problem and professionals need to be called in.

·         Wipe down your tub or shower enclosure with a squeegee or towel to prevent fungal growth, and don't forget to run the fan when you bathe. Don't use bleach products for routine cleaning − wiping up moisture should be adequate for keeping Mould from forming.

·         Spread out shower curtains and towels to dry.

·         Air-conditioning and heating ducts can sometimes harbor Mould; if you've seen moisture near a vent, or there's a Mouldy smell in the area, have your ductwork inspected.

·         Tell your cleaning professionals to avoid using mildewcides, which can harm your health.

·         Your household humidity level is too high if moisture collects on your windows. Use a dehumidifier (or two) to lower it to between 30 and 60 percent.

·         Vinegar is a great all-purpose cleaner; use it straight for tough jobs, or dilute it with water.

·         Tea-tree oil is a natural fungicide and can help disinfect surfaces − mix 2 teaspoons with 2 cups water and spray onto the affected surface, allow it to dry, then wipe with a damp cloth.

·         To whiten stained tiles or grout, mix 1/2 cup hydrogen peroxide to 1 cup water and spray.

·         For a more abrasive cleaner, apply a paste of borax and water and use a scrub brush. Always rinse well and dry.

·         Ceiling tiles, carpeting, wallboard, and other absorbent surfaces that get Mouldy are virtually impossible to clean. They need to be removed as soon as possible to prevent the Mould from spreading.

·         Test the outward airflow from each heating/cooling duct register for elevated levels of airborne Mould spores. If there is a serious toxic Mould infestation anywhere in a building, airborne Mould spores from such Mould locations will usually enter and contaminate the heating/cooling equipment and ducts, as well as the rest of the building.

·         Replace toxic Mould-infested heating/cooling equipment and ducts if you can afford to do so. Otherwise, do repeated Mould fogging with a Mould fogging machine and an EPA-registered fungicide (or an effective Mould home remedy) into the return air duct while the system is running on fan ventilation to deliver the fungicide to internal surfaces.

·         Do not paint over Mould problems. Mould loves to eat paint as a snack.

·         Use a simple mixture of a 1/4 teaspoon of clove oil (don't use more – it’s very powerful) to 1 liter of water as a Mould killer and remover. Spray the mixture on the Mould and leave overnight. The clove oil actually kills the spores rather than just "turning them white" which is what bleach does in this situation.

·         If Mould is a recurring problem, then consider creating more air movement in the area. Air movement hastens evaporation and thus drying.     

·         Look into upgrading your home insulation. Sometimes, but not always, bad insulation is the root of the problem. Walls and ceilings that are properly insulated will be less affected by condensation, and therefore mould.

·         Wrap and tape Mouldy carpeting in 6-mil plastic, and double-bag Mould-infested debris in garbage bags for disposal.

·         Again, never mix bleach with other cleaning products, such as ammonia, as that can create a dangerous chemical reaction. Use biocides safely. Always read the label and product information before use.

 Fig. 16                                                                                                                                                                                            Image: safetypartnersltd.com

Before beginning to work in Mould-contaminated areas, contain the Mouldy work area. (This contains the toxic Mould spores that will be released into the air by opening up Mould-infested walls and ceilings) by using wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling plastic sheeting as containment walls.

After installing air tight Mould containment walls, dry the work area (especially if it is still wet from flooding or a now-fixed water leak or roof leak) with one or more large dehumidifiers. Improper fan drying can spread Mould spores to cross contaminate an entire building and its heating/cooling system.

Mould Toxins (Mycotoxins)                 

Etymology of Mycotoxins

The term mycotoxin was coined in 1962 after an unusual veterinary crisis near London, England, during which approximately 100,000 turkey poults died. When this mysterious turkey X disease was linked to a peanut (groundnut) meal contaminated with secondary metabolites from Aspergillus flavus (aflatoxins), it sensitized scientists to the possibility that other occult Mould metabolites might be deadly. Soon, the mycotoxin rubric was extended to include a number of previously known fungal toxins (e.g., the ergot alkaloids), some compounds that had originally been isolated as antibiotics (e.g., patulin), and a number

of new secondary metabolites revealed in screens targeted at mycotoxin discovery (e.g., ochratoxin A).

Mycotoxins are secondary metabolites produced by microfungi that are capable of causing disease and death in humans and other animals. Because of their pharmacological activity, some mycotoxins or mycotoxin derivatives have found use as antibiotics, growth promotants, and other kinds of drugs; still others have been implicated as chemical warfare agents.

Mycoses and Mycotoxicoses, both of which comprise Mycotoxins, are major plant and insect pathogens, but they are not nearly as important as agents of disease in vertebrates, i.e., the number of medically important fungi is relatively low. Growth of fungi on animal hosts produces the diseases collectively called mycoses, while dietary, respiratory, dermal, and other exposures to toxic fungal metabolites produce the diseases collectively called mycotoxicoses.

Mycoses range from merely a nuisance (e.g., athlete's foot) to life-threatening (e.g., invasive aspergillosis). The fungi that cause mycoses can be divided into two categories, primary pathogens (e.g., Coccidioides immitis and Histoplasma capsulatum) and opportunistic pathogens (e.g., Aspergillus fumigatus and Candida albicans). Primary pathogens affect otherwise healthy individuals with normal immune systems. Opportunistic pathogens produce illness by taking advantage of debilitated or immunocompromised hosts.

The majority of human mycoses are caused by opportunistic fungi. The mechanisms of pathogenesis of both primary and opportunistic fungi are complex, and medical mycologists have devoted considerable research energy trying to identify the factors that distinguish fungal pathogens from saprophytic and commensal species. Some infections remain localized, while others progress to systemic infection. For many mycoses, the ordinary portal of entry is through the pulmonary tract, but direct inoculation through skin contact is not uncommon.            

In contrast to mycoses, mycotoxicoses are examples of “poisoning by natural means” and thus are analogous to the pathologies caused by exposure to pesticides. The symptoms of a mycotoxicosis depend on the type of mycotoxin; the amount and duration of the exposure; the age, health, and sex of the exposed individual; and many poorly understood synergistic effects involving genetics, dietary status, and interactions with other toxic insults. Thus, the severity of mycotoxin poisoning can be compounded by factors such as vitamin deficiency, caloric deprivation, alcohol abuse, and infectious disease status. In turn, mycotoxicoses can heighten vulnerability to microbial diseases, worsen the effects of malnutrition, and interact synergistically with other toxins.         

Types of Mycotoxins

During the digestion of substrates, fungi secrete enzymes into nutrients in order to break down complex compounds into simpler compounds that can be taken up by the fungi and used as nutrition. These digested nutrients produce secondary metabolic byproducts called mycotoxins that are released to give the fungi a competitive edge over other microorganisms and fungi. Unfortunately, mycotoxins can also be incredibly toxic to humans causing a variety of responses including cold/flu-like symptoms, sore throats, headaches, nose bleeds, fatigue, diarrhea, dermatitis, and immune suppression. Some mycotoxins may also be carcinogenic and teratogenic.

Some types of mycotoxins are:

o   Aflatoxins (produced by Aspergillus) - includes Aflatoxin B1, B2, G1, G2, M1 and M2.

o   Ochratoxin - includes Ochratoxin A, B, and C.

o   Trichothecene (produced by Stachybotrys) - includes Satratoxin-H, Vomitoxin and T-2 mycotoxins.

o   Fumonisins - includes Fumonisin B1 and B2.

o   Zearalenone.            

Killing Mycotoxins

Mycotoxins aren't actually alive like Mould spores. So when we talk about "killing mycotoxins" it really means breaking down mycotoxins and their toxicity so they are no longer dangerous to humans.

·         Bleach with 5% sodium hypochlorite kills trichothecene mycotoxins as well as other mycotoxins including aflatoxin.

·         It takes fire at 500 degrees Fahrenheit (260 degrees Celsius) for half an hour or fire at 900 degrees Fahrenheit (482 degrees Celsius) for 10 minutes to destroy trichothecene mycotoxins.

·         Ozone supposedly kills most or all mycotoxins, but the level of ozone needed to kill mycotoxins is unsafe for humans. If you use an ozone generator there must be no one in the house.

·         HEPA air filters are not effective at removing mycotoxins. Activated carbon filters can, however, remove mycotoxins from the air.

·         Mycotoxins do eventually break down and lose their toxicity after some time. Some types of mycotoxins can take several years though, e.g., trichothecene mycotoxins which are among the most resilient.

Size of Mycotoxins: Like Mould spores, mycotoxins are too small for us to see with the naked eye. Mycotoxins are as small as 0.1 microns. Mould spores are between 1 and 20 microns. Human hair, for comparison, is about 100 microns thick.

How Mycotoxins Enter the Human Body: When people are around toxic Mould they are usually exposed to airborne mycotoxins by breathing them in. These mycotoxins end up in the lungs and cause breathing problems and other severe symptoms.

The symptoms caused by Stachybotrys (often called toxic black Mould) are many and life-threatening. During 2004 in Kenya, 125 people died after eating maize contaminated with aflatoxin mycotoxins. There have been many cases of pets dying from eating pet food with mycotoxins in it as well.

Mycotoxins in the air can also enter through a person's eyes. Trichothecene mycotoxins can be absorbed through the skin as well. Another way mycotoxins get into a person's body is by the person eating food with mycotoxins in it. This can happen if toxic Mould has been growing on crops. Many mycotoxins, for example trichothecene, remain toxic even after being cooked. This is one reason why mycotoxins are a big problem in agriculture. A binding agent is used on crops such as grain after harvesting to remove mycotoxins.

How Long Mycotoxins are Toxic: According to experts, trichothecene mycotoxins can remain toxic for several years. Trichothecenes are probably the most long lasting mycotoxin. Things like ultraviolet light or freezing temperatures do not have much effect on trichothecene mycotoxins.

The EPA says that trichothecene toxins are very stable. Again the environment matters, if stored dry, there is little loss of activity for a year.

Mycotoxin Treatment and Decontamination

The first thing you need to do is to remove yourself from the environment where you were exposed to mycotoxins (e.g., move from the house where toxic black Mould is growing) and not return unless the problem has been remediated.

Bioterrorism experts advise that a person exposed to mycotoxins should shower for a long period of time, washing himself thoroughly with soap and water. The person should also shampoo their hair as often as possible since hair can hold a large amount of mycotoxins. Ideally the person should cut their hair, the shorter the better.

Safe Levels of Mycotoxins: In the United States the government has not yet set maximum levels for mycotoxins in the air of buildings, however some European countries have set limits. The health issues that Mould and toxic Moulds can cause are not yet officially recognized everywhere medically and many doctors are unaware of the symptoms Mould can cause. However the EPA has acknowledged that Mould growing in homes is harmful to humans and that it should be removed.

Removing Mycotoxins from Carpets: Most mycotoxins from toxic Mould in houses usually end up embedded in the carpet. When you walk on the carpet you stir up many of the mycotoxin particles into the air, along with other spores and allergens. There is no way to remove all mycotoxins from carpet and the only option is for the carpet to be removed and replaced.

Vacuuming the carpet, even with a HEPA filtered vacuum, will not suck up all of the mycotoxins embedded in the carpet. And even though HEPA vacuum cleaners can trap Mould spores, the smaller mycotoxins will pass through the vacuum cleaner and out the exhaust, increasing the amount of mycotoxins in the air and hence worsening your toxic reaction.

Central vacuuming systems may help to remove some mycotoxins if the air from the vacuum is exhausted outside the home, but again it will still not be able to pick up all the mycotoxins embedded in the carpet.

Fig. 17                                                                            Image: familyhandyman.com

Microbial Volatile Organic Compounds     

Microbial Volatile Organic Compounds (MVOCs) are gases produced by Mould. The musty odor which you might smell from Mould is caused by MVOCs. These odors are actually chemicals which are produced by Moulds during some parts of the Mould's growth cycle, e.g., during growth on water-damaged materials, many Moulds release low molecular weight MVOCs as products of secondary metabolism. Several Moulds produce volatile metabolites, which are a mixture of compounds that can be common to many species, although some also produce compounds that are genera- or species-specific. MVOCs are often similar to common industrial chemicals. Scientists have identified more than 200 of these chemical compounds but the list is ever expanding as the research continues.                   

When Does Mould Produce MVOCs?

Some Moulds produce different MVOCs depending on conditions such as how much moisture is available and what material the Mould is growing on. However MVOCs are produced only when Mould is actively growing. This is because MVOCs are the waste products created by Mould as it grows. So if you can smell MVOCs from Mould it is a sign that Mould is actively growing in your home and that you should remediate the Mould problem as soon as possible.             

The presence of many biological agents in the indoor environment is also due to inadequate ventilation. Bacteria and mould living on materials saturated with water bio degrade these substrate materials and in the process release small of volatile chemicals, fungal fragment and spores. Moreover, dampness initiates chemical or biological degradation of materials, which also pollutes indoor air. Dampness has therefore been suggested to be a strong, consistent indicator of risk of asthma and respiratory symptoms (e.g., cough and wheeze). It is believed that mould released volatiles have certain antifungal and cytotoxic properties. Because of this it is possible that under some circumstances MVOCs may be partially responsible for complaints ill health and degraded indoor air quality by building occupants.

Even if you cannot see Mould, the musty smell of MVOCs can alert you to the presence of Mould growing somewhere in your home hidden from view. MVOCs can be damaging your health even if no Mould growth is visible in your home.

Once Mould growth has been removed from a home, some MVOCs may still be present as they can remain ingrained in permeable items such as clothes, carpets, upholstered furniture and curtains. These Mouldy odors can be hard to remove. Even HEPA filters cannot remove MVOCs from the air. However, cleaning the items thoroughly along with plenty of fresh air and sunlight should remove most of the odor eventually.

Moulds living on water damaged materials release a multitude of volatile compounds. The most common ones are:

o   Alcohols : 2-methyl-1–propane, 2-methyl-1–butanol, 3-methyl-1–butanol, 2—pentanol, 1-octen-3-ol, 7- octane-2–ol, 3–octanol, 1–decanol, 2- methyl isoborneole, 1-pentanol, Geosmin

o   Terpenes: pipene, limonene,

o   Aldehydes: Formaldehyde, acetaldehyde, Propanal, Butanal, Pentanal, Hexanal, Octanal

o   Ketons: 2-heptanone, 3-octanone, butanone, 2 pentanone, 2-hexanone, cyclohexanone

o   Furanes: 3- methyl furan, 2-methyl furan

o   Sulfur compounds: dimethylsulfide

Limited evidence suggests that exposure to low concentrations of VOCs may induce respiratory irritation independent of exposure to allergenic particulate. Volatile organic compounds may also arise through

indirect metabolic effects. The common use of urea formaldehyde foam insulation as a cavity wall insulation and subsequent fungal attack and degradation of this material can lead contamination of properties by formaldehyde gas. Mould colonisation of this material results in releasing of urea from the polymer. During this process formaldehyde evolves as a derivative, causing a drop in indoor air quality.

Some Moulds and specifically Penicillium digitatum have evolved to release metabolically active gas ethylene. This mould primarily attacks fruits. If stored fruits are attacked by this fungus it releases ethylene gas which accelerated the ripening process of other fruits thus making them more susceptible to Mould attack.

Some penicillia are able to produce geosmin, a volatile compound giving fungal or earthy odour to wine. P. expansum and P. carneum are the two most recently identified species of mould capable of producing this compound when growing on grapes.

Symptoms Caused by MVOCs: MVOCs can cause symptoms like headaches, nausea, dizziness and fatigue. MVOCs may also irritate the eyes and the mucus membranes of the nose and throat. However, because research on MVOCs is still at an early stage, not everything is yet known about MVOCs and our reactions to them.

Not all Moulds generate MVOCs, and even Moulds that do generate MVOC's don't do so all the time. If the humidity, temperature, light, and other factors don't cause a particular MVOC-generating Mould to release this gas, you're not going to detect it on the day of the inspection and test. Just later. An interesting article is available online, dealing with the toxic effects of Mycotoxins on humans, sheep, and possibly on pets.               

Mould Resources

As stated repeatedly, moisture control is the key to Mould control. The related EPA publication is available online in .PDF format. This Guide provides information and guidance for homeowners and renters on how to clean up residential Mould problems and how to prevent Mould growth.

Moisture problems and their solutions differ from one climate to another. The Northeast is cold and wet; the Southwest is hot and dry; the South is hot and wet; and the Western Mountain states are cold and dry. All of these regions can have moisture problems. For example, evaporative coolers used in the Southwest can encourage the growth of biological pollutants. In other hot regions, the use of air conditioners which cool the air too quickly may prevent the air conditioners from running long enough to remove excess moisture from the air. The types of construction and weatherization for the different climates can lead to different problems and solutions.

Your humidistat is set too high if excessive moisture collects on windows and other cold surfaces. Excess humidity for a prolonged time can damage walls especially when outdoor air temperatures are very low. Humidifiers are not recommended for use in buildings without proper vapor barriers due potential damage from moisture buildup. Consult a professional to determine the adequacy of the vapor barrier in your house. Use a humidity indicator to measure the relative humidity in your house. The American Society of Heating and Air Conditioning Engineers recommends these maximum indoor humidity levels:

Temperature Outdoors °F	Indoor Relative Humidity Percentage
+20	35
+10	30
0	25
-10	20
-20	15

                                   Chart 1  

How to Identify the Cause of a Mould Problem

Mould is commonly found on the exterior wall surfaces of corner rooms in heating climate locations. An exposed corner room is likely to be significantly colder than adjoining rooms, so that it has a higher relative humidity (RH) than other rooms at the same water vapor pressure. If Mould growth is found in a corner room, then relative humidity next to the room surfaces is above 70%. However, is the RH above 70% at the surfaces because the room is too cold or because there is too much moisture present (high water vapor pressure)?

The amount of moisture in the room can be estimated by measuring both temperature and RH at the same location and at the same time. Suppose there are two cases. In the first case, assume that the RH is 30 percent and the temperature is 70^oF in the middle of the room. The low RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure (or absolute humidity) is low. The high surface RH is probably due to room surfaces that are "too cold." Temperature is the dominating factor, and control strategies should involve increasing the temperature at cold room surfaces (ibid).

In the second case, assume that the RH is 50 percent and the temperature is 70^oF in the middle of the room. The higher RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure is high and there is a relatively large amount of moisture in the air. The high surface RH is probably due to air that is "too moist." Humidity is the dominating factor, and control strategies should involve decreasing the moisture content of the indoor air.

Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned?

You should consider having the air ducts in your home cleaned if:

o   There is substantial visible Mould growth inside hard surface (e.g., sheet metal) ducts or on other components of your heating and cooling system. There are several important points to understand concerning Mould detection in heating and cooling systems:

o   Many sections of your heating and cooling system may not be accessible for a visible inspection, so ask the service provider to show you any Mould they say exists.

o   You should be aware that although a substance may look like Mould, determination of whether it is Mould or not can be made only by an expert and may require laboratory analysis for final confirmation. For about $50, some microbiology laboratories can tell you whether a sample sent to them on a clear strip of sticky household tape is Mould or simply a substance that resembles it.

o   If you have insulated air ducts and the insulation gets wet or Mouldy it cannot be effectively cleaned and should be removed and replaced.

o   If the conditions causing the Mould growth in the first place are not corrected, Mould growth will recur.

Common Moisture Sources Found in Schools

Moisture problems in school buildings can be caused by a variety of conditions, including roof and plumbing leaks, condensation, and excess humidity. Some moisture problems in schools have been linked to changes in building construction practices during the past twenty to thirty years. These changes have resulted in more tightly sealed buildings that may not allow moisture to escape easily. Moisture problems in schools are also associated with delayed maintenance or insufficient maintenance, due to budget and other constraints. Temporary structures in schools, such as trailers and portable classrooms, have frequently been associated with moisture and Mould problems.       

Flooding  

Dealing with Mould Problems After a Flood:

It is known that Mould spores germinate and grow best in a moist or damp environment on any surface that contains organic matter for its food. A home that’s been flooded can provide ideal conditions for the growth and proliferation of Mould.

Why is Mould a Concern?

§  Indoor Mould can trigger allergies or allergy-like symptoms affecting the upper respiratory system, as already seen, although other, more serious problems can also occur if people are exposed to very high levels of Mould. In addition to ailments, Mould damages building materials, goods, or furnishings when it grows on them. Mould growth and moisture may well compromise the building’s structural integrity.

§  Expect a Mould problem: investigate – don’t test: After a flood, the most practical and reliable tools for detecting a Mould problem are your eyes and nose. If you see something that looks like Mould, or you detect an earthy or musty smell, assume a Mould problem exists. The presence of moisture or worsening allergy-like symptoms also point to a Mould problem.

When You Check for Mould, Be Sure To:

§  Look for visible Mould growth. Mould often appears as staining, discoloration, or fuzzy growth on the surface of building materials or furnishings. Search areas with noticeable Mould odors.

§  Look for signs of excess moisture or water damage.

§  Look for water leaks, standing water, water stains, and condensation. Do you see any watermarks or discoloration on walls, ceilings, carpet, woodwork or other building materials? Search behind and underneath materials (carpet and pad, wallpaper, vinyl flooring, sink cabinets), furniture, or stored items.

§  Sometimes destructive techniques may be needed to inspect and clean enclosed spaces where Mould and moisture are hidden − opening up a wall cavity, for example. Be sure to use protective equipment described earlier (pp 49-50).

Mould Testing: Expensive but Probably Not Cost Effective:

People often have unrealistic expectations about what testing can accomplish, and are easily persuaded that it needs to be done. But Mould testing is expensive, and it may or may not tell you what you need to know. Before you’re tempted to have any testing done, try to check for possible Mould problems on your own. The basic task is always to (a) find the location of any Mould growth, and (b) determine the source of the moisture that’s allowing the Mould to grow. If you see or smell Mould, you don’t need to test for it; have it cleaned up instead.

Protect Yourself:

People with health problems or sensitivity to Mould should not do clean-up work where there is heavy Mould growth, or a high risk of disturbing materials contaminated with Mould. People who are in poor physical condition should be wary about doing heavy work while wearing a respirator.

If you plan to enter a Mouldy environment, especially where Mouldy materials are being disturbed, you should use a respirator to protect your health. At a minimum, you should use an N95 or an N100 type disposable respirator. Greater respiratory protection may be more appropriate where Mould growth is heavy or covers an extensive area. More protective options include half-face negative-air respirators with a HEPA filter (i.e., N100, P100) or supplied air respirators such as a powered air purifying respirator. The following additional precautions are recommended when working with Mouldy materials:

§  Wear eye goggles that seal out fine dust-like materials.

§  Wear outer clothing (long-sleeved shirts and long pants) that can be easily removed before leaving the work area, and later laundered or discarded.

§  Do not eat, drink or smoke in the contaminated area, since disease-causing organisms from sewage or floodwater may be present.

The Basic Steps-A Reiteration.

1.       Identify and remove any sources of moisture. This is the most important – and the most basic – thing you need to do. Mould can’t grow without moisture.

2.       Begin drying any and all materials that got wet. Do this as soon as possible after the floodwaters have receded, using ALL means available.

3.       Remove and dispose of Mould-contaminated materials, including carpets.

4.       Cut away wet wallboard and remove all wet insulation right away, even if appears dry.

5.       Disinfect surfaces to avoid spreading Mould contamination.

6.       As you are cleaning up, avoid spreading Mould spores: Enclose Mouldy items in plastic (bags or sheets) before you carry them out. When transporting Mouldy materials, use the shortest path into and out of the building. Hang plastic sheeting to seal off the work area. Remove the outer layer of work clothes before leaving the work area. Bag contaminated clothes or wash them separately. Damp clean all surfaces in and around the work area to remove any fine dust.

7.       Take photographs to document damages for insurance purposes, and get started.  It is not wise to wait for the adjuster to see it in person. Most homeowner insurance policies do not cover Mould damages or clean-up costs.

8.       Speed the drying of subfloors, slabs and wall framing before replacing insulation, wallboard and flooring.

9.       Never mix bleach with ammonia.

10.   Download and follow instructions given in the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) eBook.

Moulds in Our Environment

Moulds are found everywhere in the environment, both indoors and outdoors, and throughout the year. Outdoor Mould spores begin to increase as temperatures rise in the spring. In the United States, Mould spores reach their peak in July in warmer states and October in the colder states. They can be found year-round in the South and on the West Coast.

Moulds cause allergic symptoms in many people. As is known, common reactions to Moulds include nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, or wheezing when breathing. More severe reactions may occur among workers, such as farmers, who are exposed to large amounts of Moulds in occupational settings, including fever or shortness of breath. Mould infections may occur in the lungs of persons with obstructive lung disease.

Therefore, Mould exposure should be decreased.

Outdoors: Avoid areas that are likely to have Mould, such as:

·         Compost piles

·         Cut grass

·         Wooded areas

·         Damp, mossy areas

·         Greenhouses

·         Antique shops

·         Saunas

·         Construction areas 

·         Mills

·         Flower shops 

·         Summer cottages 

    Indoors: Apart from the measures already discussed, try to

·         Use a dehumidifier during humid months.

·         Avoid use carpet in susceptible areas such as bathrooms or basements.

·         Fix leaks in roofs, walls, and/or plumbing to eliminate moisture.

·         Add a Mould inhibitor to paint when painting

According to FEMA, one of the most serious results of water damage from a hurricane or severe floods is Mould. The Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) adds that Moulds can be recognized from sight, wall or ceiling discoloration, and a bad odor or musty smell. Both FEMA and CDC warn returning to water damaged homes after a disaster may pose serious health threat, especially to people who already have preexisting respiratory conditions, pregnant women, children, elderly, and those persons with immuno-compromised diseases.

FEMA and CDC have developed specific guidelines for clean-up of water related disasters. Please consult your doctor with any questions or concerns you may have regarding this condition. You could also refer to Canada’s official position on the health risks posed by Mould, based on a review of the best scientific information available.