Testing or Sampling for Mould
How to Collect Samples and Test for Mould or Bacteria
Laboratory results are only as good as the sample. The sample type taken
generally depends on the purpose of the investigation and the importance of
accurate results cannot be overstated: Test results change people’s lives. There’s
not much point using a lab analysis report to guide your microbial remediation
decisions or recommendations unless the sample collected for analysis was truly
representative of the total building contamination. The aim should always be to
collect the most representative sample possible.
How to safely collect and send samples for Mould testing services:
·
Cut 2-3
inches of clear scotch tape; avoid touching the sticky side by holding the
piece of tape by the edges.
·
Press
the tape gently onto the surface you wish to test for Mould growth.
·
Peel
the tape off surface holding the tape by the edges only.
·
Apply
sticky side of tape to the inside of the ziplock bag; do not fold the tape.
·
Close
bag and label the sample appropriately (put only one sample per bag).
·
Fill
the chain of custody form and send it together with the samples to a Mould
and Bacteria Consulting Laboratory in the USA if you can locate one, or to
Canada.
How to collect bulk samples for Mould testing
·
Wear
suitable gloves.
·
Cut a
small piece (about 4 square inches) of the suspect material (e.g., carpet,
drywall, wallpaper, wood); taking care not to disturb the Mould.
·
Place
the sample inside a clean plastic bag (e.g., ziplock).
·
Close
the bag and label the sample appropriately.
·
Fill
the chain of custody form and send it together with the samples to the laboratory.
How to collect swab samples for Mould or bacteria testing:
Dry swabs are recommended for wet surfaces and wet swabs for dry
surfaces.
·
Wear
suitable gloves.
·
Remove
swab from tube (If using swabs with a wetting agent, drain most of it on the
sides of the tube before sampling).
·
Swab
the test surface, rolling the swab lightly back and forth. For quantification
of the amount of Mould or bacteria on the test surface, swab a known surface
area (for example, 100 square centimeters).
·
After
swabbing, insert the swab in the tube – Firmly close cap and label the sample
appropriately.
·
Fill
the chain of custody form and send it together with the samples to the laboratory.
How to collect air samples for culture analysis:
Settle Plate Samples
·
Select
suitable agar media for sampling.
·
Place
the plates at table-top level and remove the lids.
·
Leave
the plates open for 0.5-4 hours.
·
Cover
the plates and secure the lids with clear tape.
·
Label
the plates with appropriate information.
·
Place
the samples in a cooler/box ensuring the samples are not in contact with ice
packs (to avoid having the samples frozen).
·
Fill
the chain of custody form and send it together with the samples to us for
incubation and identification of the resulting Mould or bacteria.
Key Points to Remember:
·
Use a
permanent marker to label the samples.
·
Complete
a chain of custody form (sample submittal form) with the relevant information.
·
For air
samples, record the flow rate and sampling time or the total air volume
collected on the form.
·
Secure
the samples and the chain of custody form in a shipping container.
·
For
samples that do not require culturing, refrigeration is usually not needed when
submitting the samples to the laboratory for analysis.
·
When
collecting samples, download and fill out an Analysis Request Form.
Turnaround time for
all culture analyses is 10-14 days.
Hidden
Mould
Suspicion of
hidden Mould
You may suspect hidden Mould if a building smells Mouldy, but you cannot
see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are
reporting health problems. Mould may be hidden in places such as the back side
of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the
underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden Mould
include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the
surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork,
and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient
insulation).
To find hidden Mould systematically, use the following Mould investigation steps:
1.
Use do
it yourself Mould test kits from a large hardware or home improvement store to Mould
test the air of each room, attic, basement, crawl space, and garage, and to do
an outdoor Mould control test. If self-observation of Mould test growth results
or Mould lab analysis reveals higher than outdoor Mould growth in a particular
room or area, you should concentrate and target your in-depth Mould
investigation in such areas.
2.
Use do
it yourself Mould test kits to Mould test the air flow out of each
heating/cooling duct register. If self-observation of Mould test growth results
or Mould lab analysis reveals higher than outdoor Mould growth in a particular
duct air flow test, you should inspect that duct or ducts and the heating/cooling
equipment for likely Mould infestation therein.
3.
Use household
mixture solutions like DampProtectT, WallProtectT, and DryRotT sensors to find
elevated moisture and dry rot areas hidden inside ceilings, walls, and floors
because the presence of elevated internal moisture and dry rot inside building
materials makes it likely that there are also elevated levels of hidden Mould
growth therein.
4.
Use a
hidden moisture meter to scan the entire surfaces of all walls, ceilings, and
floors for elevated levels of moisture, which would thus facilitate internal Mould
growth.
5.
In
drywall ceilings and walls, cut out and remove numerous, widespread one inch by
one inch drywall squares. Examine each ceiling or wall sample square for Mould
growth inside the drywall material and on the rear (internal ceiling or wall
area). Use a flashlight to look inside the holes for Mould growth. Sniff the
internal ceiling or wall air for Mould. Draw air samples out of each hole with
a fan blowing internal air onto the sticky surface of a Mould test kit.
6.
Take
out the drawers of all kitchen and bathroom cabinets and of all furniture with
drawers to examine the insides of the cabinets, as well as the bottom, and
backside of each drawer, for hidden Mould infestation.
7.
Remove
kitchen and bathroom cabinets in their entirety to examine for possible Mould
growth at the bottom and backside of the cabinets, as well as on and in the
wall behind the cabinets and the floor beneath the cabinets.
8.
Use a
digital hygrometer (about $30 from a large hardware or home improvement store)
to check the humidity level of each room, attic, crawl space, basement and
garage. If a room or area has indoor humidity in excess of 60%, there is likely
to be hidden Mould growth somewhere in such a room or area. Find it by careful
visual inspection, and by utilizing the other Mould investigation tips provided
in this hidden Mould list.
9.
Examine
all bathroom fixtures, kitchen fixtures, laundry fixtures, and all water supply
and sewer lines for signs of leaks, which, if existent, would likely indicate
the presence of Mould growth inside adjacent wet building materials. Inspect
walls and ceilings for water stains, sagging areas, and soft areas.
10.
In the
attic, pull up insulation to inspect for hidden Mould growth.
There is always the
option of hiring professionals in this field to find and eliminate hidden Mould,
particularly if invasive inspection techniques are needed to look into the
area. Invasive inspection techniques usually involve removing parts of surfaces
to look behind them for hidden Mould.
If you are doing
invasive inspection yourself, you must wear protective equipment. This is because there is a good chance you could trigger the release
of large amounts of Mould spores into the air. Invasively inspecting for hidden
Mould also includes lifting carpets to check for Mould underneath, looking
behind paneling, looking behind ceiling tiles, looking under wallpaper, looking
inside air ducts and moving furniture or insulation to check behind.
Removing Mould
from Glass and Windows
The growth of Mould
on standalone glass objects, window sills, frames, glass and tracks is a common
problem in many of
the homes built today. The presence of Mould growth on window surfaces can
easily be controlled through regular housekeeping and building maintenance and
does not adversely impact the air quality unless the growth is extensive and
not handled properly. It is often more of an aesthetics concern to homeowners
than a public health issue. Stachybotrys, the Mould spore typically referred to
as "black Mould" is rarely found on window surfaces, as the growth
conditions on window surfaces (frequent changes in moisture and low organic
food sources) are typically not suitable for supporting Stachybotrys growth.
Mould on Glass: Mouldy glass takes away from the simple beauty of a vase
of flowers or an open window. Glass is a nonporous surface, which means the Mould
growth is limited and will not ruin your item. Household cleaners, such as
vinegar, clean Mould away, leaving surfaces squeaky clean. Prevent further Mould
growth by detecting any sources of moisture such as rain or condensation.
·
Put on
rubber gloves and a face mask before removing Mould. This protects you from
breathing in Mould spores and protects your skin in case the glass breaks.
·
Fill a
spray bottle with white vinegar. Spray the glass with the vinegar; allow it to
sit for one minute before washing it away.
·
Wet a
sponge in warm, soapy water. Wring the excess water from the sponge. Scrub away
the Mould. Rinse the soap from the sponge. Wipe away the soap from the glass.
·
Dry the
glass with paper towels.
·
Spritz
the glass again with a light spray of vinegar. Wipe away the vinegar with paper
towels.
Clearing Mould from Windows: Discovering Mould on windows is not uncommon if condensation is a
problem. However, by following a few simple steps, you can easily find and rectify the cause
as well as prevent it from reoccurring.
Begin the process of removing Mould on windows by identifying every
point where it exists. Examine the glass and frames of the windows thoroughly
to make sure that you know where every instance of Mould occurs. This makes it
easier to remove it all at the same time. Do not overlook the inner surface of
the window frames; open the windows and check inside thoroughly.
If, when you come to clean the Mould on windows, the panes and frames
are dry, begin by using a vacuum cleaner to remove any loose spores. Undertake
this process when the window is open to allow the particles of Mould an escape
route. Slowly and steadily run the nozzle of the hose over the glass and the
frames to make sure you cover every section. Once complete, clean the vacuum
nozzle with a cloth dampened with vinegar.
Avoid using a vacuum if the windows are wet. Instead, put on a pair of
protective gloves and use a cloth that has been dampened with tepid water to
wipe the panes and frames of the windows. At this stage, your action should
only be to remove the excess of the Mould on windows. Avoid rubbing too hard to
avoid forcing Mould spores into the wood of the window frame. Regularly rinse
the cloth in clean water.
Once the excess Mould has been removed, you will be in a better position
to determine the full extent of the problem. Where the problem is relatively
minor, spray some white vinegar onto the windows and leave it for a few minutes
as you gather some baking soda onto a clean cloth. This can then be used to rub
away the Mould as the baking soda will act as an abrasive and the vinegar will
kill the spores. If the problem is more extensive, dilute some fungicide in a
bucket of water in accordance with the instructions and use this to clean the
glass and frames of the windows.
After removing the Mould, dry the surface thoroughly with a cloth and
inspect it to ensure that there are no final traces of Mould. If so, repeat the
cleaning process again.
Prevent Mould from returning by keeping the windows condensation-free.
This can be achieved by wiping condensation away with a dry cloth. Wherever
possible, keep the window ventilated so that air can circulate and prevent the
area from becoming damp.
A fact sheet on controlling Mould growth on window surfaces is available online.
Clearing Mould
from Tiles
Removing Mould from tiles and grout: You'll often see Mould growing on tiles in
places like the bathroom. This growth can easily be cleaned from the non-porous
surfaces of tiles.
Begin by scrubbing
the Mould off of the tiles and grout. You should use a scrubbing brush along
with a household cleaning product or Mould killing product. There are also commercial tile or grout
cleaners you can buy. After this you'll probably still find Mould stains left
on the grout. You can use bleach to fade these stains away. Before you use the
bleach you should spot test it to make sure that it won't discolor your tiles. Wear
gloves to protect your hands from the bleach.
Apply the bleach to
the grout and leave it sit for about 10 minutes. Instead of chlorine bleach you
can use hydrogen peroxide if you like, or buy a commercial product that
contains oxygen bleach. If you have a septic system it's better to use oxygen
bleach than chlorine bleach. Another alternative is to use baking soda. Mix it
with water to create a paste and then use a toothbrush to scrub it onto the
grout.
If you find the
stain remains on the grout after bleaching then repeat the process. Afterwards
rinse the bleach off thoroughly with water. If the stains won't go away you can
try using paper towels soaked in bleach. Saturate paper towels in bleach and
then stick them to the grout where there are stains. Give it some time and this
should fade away the Mould stains on the grout.
Grout Sealer: You
can also apply grout sealer to the grout. This will protect you from any small
amount of Mould left on the grout and also help to prevent Mould growing in the
future. You also have the option of replacing the grout all together. First you'll
need to scrape out the old grout. You can use a flat head screwdriver for this.
You can buy new grout mixture from the hardware store and apply it yourself.
Sealing the new grout with grout sealer afterwards will give you even more Mould
protection.
How to Get Mould
Off of Marble Tiles:
Mould can grow on
dirty marble tiles, since dirt is an organic material and provides food for the
spores. When cleaning Mould from marble tiles, though, you have to use caution because
marble is a very sensitive natural stone.
Using Neutral
Cleaners: Dry your marble
tiles. Mould can only grow if your surface is covered in some kind of moisture,
so eliminate the moisture using heat. Use a heater, high-powered fans or a
dehumidifier. Don’t use towels to dry the marble, as they will prove
ineffective and may even spread the Mould around.
Scrub your marble
tiles using a neutral cleaner and a dust mop for floors and a soft cloth for
other marble surfaces. In home supply stores, you’ll find these products
marketed as neutral pH cleaners. These cleaners safely remove the dirt from
your marble; without dirt, the Mould has no nutrient source. Use a toothbrush
or miniature scrubbing brush with the cleanser to reach between the grout
lines. Allow the floor to air dry.
Using Chemical
Cleaners: Put on a pair of
rubber gloves and a breathing mask. Mix a gallon of water with 1/2 cup of
bleach or ammonia or hydrogen peroxide. Do not mix any of these ingredients under
any circumstances, but choose only one, if the neutral cleaner fails to do the
job. Bleach is the most effective, but peroxide and ammonia are safe and
natural.
Apply the liquid
solution to the tile surface using a clean dust mop or soft cloth and scrub the
entire surface. Use a toothbrush or mini-scrubbing brush to get between grout
lines. Allow the floor to air dry.
Caution:
1.
Never
mix bleach with ammonia.
2.
Do not
use vinegar on marble tiles. While vinegar is often useful for killing Mould,
the acetic acid can weaken or dissolve the natural stone.
Mould on
Stainless Steel
Stachybotrys
chartarum, or black Mould, typically appears as a black- and dark-green slime that carries a powerful musty odor.
When you find black Mould near a sink, the problem may be the result of a leak
in the plumbing since black Mould requires large amounts of moisture in order
to grow. A kitchen is thus its favorite breeding ground. If left unchecked−you
go on a 30 day vacation with your dishwasher full of used crockery,
cutlery and other steel implements−you will find a particularly disagreeable
stench in your kitchen that may pervade most of your house. If you have a tiny
leak in the plumbing in your kitchen, it will grow into a big puddle over time.
Well, buckle up to recover!
·
Put on
rubber gloves and a breathing mask before approaching the area. Remove
everything from the Mouldy area, including cleaning supplies, cooking utensils
and dirty dishes. Place Mouldy objects in black trash bags, seal the bags and
dispose of them outdoors.
·
Inspect
the area to confirm the cause of the water damage, such as a leaky pipe beneath
the sink; turn off the water supply before proceeding.
·
Close
any doors and windows. Black Mould requires containment in order to prevent the
fungus from spreading. For a more thorough containment, you can cover any doors
in plastic sheeting, sold in home improvement stores. Place a strong electric
space heater or a dehumidifier in front of the sink and turn it on until the
sink area dries completely.
·
Vacuum
the area with a hose attachment to remove the black Mould from the surface.
Immediately take the vacuum outdoors and thoroughly clean the filter with
detergent and water. For a vacuum that uses a bag, throw it away immediately.
·
Disinfect
the sink area using a mixture of 1 part bleach and 16 parts water, or 1cup of
bleach to 1 gallon of water. While still wearing your rubber gloves, spray the
solution over all affected areas and scrub with a firm sponge. If cleaning a
stainless steel sink, use an oxygen bleach, because standard household bleach
contains sodium hypochlorite, and chlorides can react with stainless steel.
·
Rinse
the area with a damp sponge to remove the bleach, and use your dehumidifier or
your heater to dry the area again. Do not stop until the entire area is
completely dry.
·
Repair
the problem that caused the Mould buildup in the first place. Tighten any
pipes, repair any leaky faucets or patch any roof leaks causing water damage in
your home. Turn the water back on if you previously turned it off, and keep a
close eye on the sink area. If Mould returns, contact a professional
remediator.
Mould Remediation/Cleanup Methods
The purpose of Mould
remediation is to correct the moisture problem and to remove Mouldy and
contaminated materials to prevent human exposure
and further damage to building materials and furnishings. Porous materials that
are wet and have Mould growing on them may have to be discarded because Moulds
can infiltrate porous substances and grow on or fill in empty spaces or crevices.
This Mould can be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
As a general rule,
simply killing the Mould, for example, with biocide is not enough. The Mould
must be removed, since the chemicals and proteins, which can cause a reaction
in humans, are present even in dead Mould.
A variety of
cleanup methods are available for remediating damage to building materials and
furnishings caused by moisture control problems and Mould growth. The specific
method or group of methods used will depend on the type of material affected.
Some methods that may be used include the following:
·
Wet
Vacuum: Wet vacuums are vacuum cleaners designed to collect water. They can be
used to remove water from floors, carpets, and hard surfaces where water has
accumulated. They should not be used to vacuum porous materials, such as gypsum
board. Wet vacuums should be used only on wet materials, as spores may be
exhausted into the indoor environment if insufficient liquid is present. The
tanks, hoses, and attachments of these vacuums should be thoroughly cleaned and
dried after use since Mould and Mould spores may adhere to equipment surfaces
(ibid).
·
Damp
Wipe: Mould can generally be removed from nonporous surfaces by wiping or
scrubbing with water and detergent. It is important to dry these surfaces
quickly and thoroughly to discourage further Mould growth. Instructions for
cleaning surfaces, as listed on product labels, should always be read and
followed.
·
High-Efficiency
Particulate Air Vacuum: High-Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) vacuums are
recommended for final cleanup of remediation areas after materials have been
thoroughly dried and contaminated materials removed. HEPA vacuums also are
recommended for cleanup of dust that may have settled on surfaces outside the
remediation area. Care must be taken to assure that the filter is properly
seated in the vacuum so that all the air passes through the filter. When
changing the vacuum filter, remediators should wear respirators, appropriate
personal protective equipment (PPE), gloves, and eye protection to prevent
exposure to any captured Mould and other contaminants. The filter and contents
of the HEPA vacuum must be disposed of in impermeable bags or containers in
such a way as to prevent release of the debris.
·
Disposal
of Damaged Materials: Building materials and furnishings contaminated with Mould
growth that are not salvageable should be placed in sealed impermeable bags or
closed containers while in the remediation area. These materials can usually be
discarded as ordinary construction waste. It is important to package Mould-contaminated
materials in this fashion to minimize the dispersion of Mould spores. Large
items with heavy Mould growth should be covered with polyethylene sheeting and
sealed with duct tape before being removed from the remediation area. Some jobs
may require the use of dust-tight chutes to move large quantities of debris to
a dumpster strategically placed outside a window in the remediation area (ibid).
·
Use of
Biocides: The use of a biocide, such as chlorine bleach, is not recommended as
a routine practice during Mould remediation, although there may be instances
where professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when
immuno-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible
or desirable to sterilize an area, as a background level of Mould spores
comparable to the level in outside air will persist. However, the spores in the
ambient air will not cause further problems if the moisture level in the
building has been corrected.
·
Biocides
are toxic to animals, humans, as well as to Mould. If you choose to use
disinfectants or biocides, always ventilate the area, using outside air if
possible, and exhaust the air to the outdoors. When using fans, take care not
to extend the zone of contamination by distributing Mould spores to a
previously unaffected area. Never
mix chlorine bleach solution with other cleaning solutions or detergents that
contain ammonia because this may produce highly toxic vapors and create a
hazard to workers.
·
Some
biocides are considered pesticides, and some states require that only
registered pesticide applicators apply these products in schools, commercial
buildings, and homes. Make sure anyone applying a biocide is properly licensed
where required (ibid).
·
Fungicides
are commonly applied to outdoor plants, soil, and grains as a powder or spray.
Examples of fungicides include hexachlorobenzene, organomercurials,
pentachlorophenol, phthalimides, and dithiocarbamates.
Do not use fungicides developed for outdoor use in any indoor
application, as they can be extremely toxic to animals and humans in an
enclosed environment.
When you use biocides as a disinfectant or a pesticide, or as a
fungicide, you should use appropriate PPE, including respirators. Always, read
and follow product label precautions. It is a violation of Federal (EPA) law to
use a biocide in any manner inconsistent with its label direction.
Personal Protective Equipment
(PPE)
Any remediation work that disturbs Mold
and causes Mold spores to become airborne increases the degree of respiratory
exposure. Actions that tend to disperse Mold include: breaking apart Moldy
porous materials such as wallboard; destructive invasive procedures to examine
or remediate Mold growth in a wall cavity; removal of contaminated wallpaper by
stripping or peeling; using fans to dry items or ventilate areas.
The primary function of personal protective
equipment (PPE) is to prevent the inhalation and ingestion of Mold and
Mold spores and to avoid Mold contact with the skin or eyes.
Skin and Eye Protection
Don Tyvek coveralls with attached
hood and booties or similar clothing. Gloves protect the skin from contact with
Mold, as well as from potentially irritating cleaning solutions. Long gloves
that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended. The glove material
should be selected based on the type of substance/ chemical being handled. If
you are using a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution,
you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile,
polyurethane, or PVC. If you are using a mild detergent or plain water,
ordinary household rubber gloves may be used.
To protect your eyes, use properly
fitted goggles or a full face piece respirator. Goggles must be designed to
prevent the entry of dust and small particles. Safety glasses or goggles with
open vent holes are not appropriate in Mold remediation.
Respiratory Protection
Respirators protect cleanup workers
from inhaling airborne Mold, contaminated dust, and other particulates that are
released during the remediation process. Either a half mask or full face piece
air-purifying respirator can be used. A full face piece respirator provides
both respiratory and eye protection. Respirators used to provide protection
from Mold and Mold spores must be certified by the National Institute for
Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH). More protective respirators may have to
be selected and used if toxic contaminants such as asbestos or lead are
encountered during remediation. Wear an N-99 respirator or an N-95 at the very
least.
Individuals who use respirators
must be properly trained, have medical clearance, and be properly fit tested
before using a respirator. In addition, use of respirators requires the
employer to develop and implement a written respiratory protection program,
with worksite-specific procedures and elements. The possibility of oxygen deficiency or other
environments immediately dangerous to life or health must be considered.
Protective Clothing
While conducting building
inspections and remediation work, individuals may encounter hazardous
biological agents as well as chemical and physical hazards. Consequently,
appropriate personal
protective clothing (i.e., reusable or disposable) is recommended to minimize
cross-contamination between work areas and clean areas, to prevent the transfer
and spread of Mold and other contaminants to street clothing, and to eliminate
skin contact with Mold and potential chemical exposures.
Disposable PPE should be discarded
after it is used. They should be placed into impermeable bags, and usually can
be discarded as ordinary construction waste. Appropriate precautions and
protective equipment for biocide applicators should be selected based on the
product manufacturer's warnings and recommendations (e.g., goggles or face
shield, aprons or other protective clothing, gloves, and respiratory
protection).
If not wearing Tyvek coveralls with a hood or booties, do
use a disposable hair cover and disposable shoe coverings. Also use a hard hat.
Half-Face Respirator – Half-face respirators are appropriate
for Mould removal jobs involving no more than 100 square feet of Mouldy
materials.
Full-Face Respirator – Full-face respirators are appropriate
for Mould removal jobs involving more than 100 square feet of Mouldy materials.
Fig. 14 Cleaning
while wearing N-95 respirator, gloves and goggles Image: EPA
Remediation guidelines for building materials that have or are
likely to have Mould growth are designed to protect the health of cleanup
personnel and other workers during remediation. These guidelines are based on
the size of the area impacted by Mould contamination. Professionals may prefer
other remediation methods, and certain circumstances may require different
approaches or variations on the approaches described below. If possible,
remediation activities should be scheduled during off-hours when building
occupants are less likely to be affected. DIY work should be limited to an area
not exceeding 1 sq m (10 sq ft) or less. Larger areas should be left to
professionals in this field.
Clean up work should not be assigned to persons recovering from recent
surgery, immune-suppressed people, or people with chronic lung diseases (e.g.,
asthma, hypersensitivity pneumonitis, and severe allergies).
Chose Your Remediator Carefully
There is no question that a high-quality active air purifier can help
control Mould issues but it will NOT remediate against them. You can use the
best air filters and purifiers and they will never solve the problem if you
continue to have water intrusion into your home that increases the humidity and
feeds the growth of the Mould. You will need to stop the water at its source
and carefully remove and clean the Mould infested materials. While this may
superficially seem an easy task, it is far from true.
You need to fine a qualified expert and professional that is certified
by one of the agencies below. I would also suggest getting several bids for the
work. You can find a contractor or professional listings on the following
sites.
·
ACAC (American Council for Accredited Certification)—a certifying body that
is third-party accredited.
·
The IAQA (Indoor Air Quality Association)—a membership organization with no
certification program (the ACAC handles this by agreement).
Fig. 15 Image:
safetypartnersltd.com
Both the IICRC and NORMI are certifying organizations for Mould
remediation, but the IICRC certification is perhaps the most widely used. Keep
in mind that a mere certification or listing may not be enough. Also evaluate
the remediator's qualifications and insurance (liability as well as workman's
comp). With the ACAC, there are a few different levels.
If the damaged area exceeds 10 sqm (100 sq ft), please refer to this site for comprehensive instructions on how to
protect yourself from infection.
Tips and techniques to tackle Mould
Black Mould usually only occurs
on items that have remained or been wet several times and that contain
cellulose. This includes such things as gypsum board, cardboard, ceiling tiles,
wood and insulation. Mould grows rapidly and it will likely leave anything that
is porous damaged in the process. If you have Mould on cellulose products, the
best move you can make is to call for professional for help.
·
If the black Mould in your home is not out of
control (<1 sqm, 10 sq ft) and you have found it before it has penetrated any
surface, and any cause of standing water or dampness has been repaired, you can
take care of it yourself. If it has permeated the walls, ceiling or floor of
your home, it is a
serious problem and professionals need to be called in.
·
Wipe down your tub or shower enclosure with a
squeegee or towel to prevent
fungal growth, and don't forget to run the fan when you bathe. Don't use
bleach products for routine cleaning − wiping up moisture should be adequate
for keeping Mould from forming.
·
Spread out shower curtains and towels to dry.
·
Air-conditioning and heating ducts can sometimes
harbor Mould; if you've seen moisture near a vent, or there's a Mouldy smell in
the area, have your ductwork inspected.
·
Tell your cleaning professionals to avoid using
mildewcides, which can harm your health.
·
Your household humidity level is too high if
moisture collects on your windows. Use a dehumidifier (or two) to lower it to
between 30 and 60 percent.
·
Vinegar is a great all-purpose cleaner; use it
straight for tough jobs, or dilute it with water.
·
Tea-tree oil is a natural fungicide and can help
disinfect surfaces − mix 2 teaspoons with 2 cups water and spray onto the
affected surface, allow it to dry, then wipe with a damp cloth.
·
To whiten stained tiles or grout, mix 1/2 cup
hydrogen peroxide to 1 cup water and spray.
·
For a more abrasive cleaner, apply a paste of borax
and water and use a scrub brush. Always rinse well and dry.
·
Ceiling tiles, carpeting, wallboard, and other
absorbent surfaces that get Mouldy are virtually impossible to clean. They need
to be removed as soon as possible to prevent the Mould from spreading.
·
Test the outward airflow from each
heating/cooling duct register for elevated levels of airborne Mould spores. If
there is a serious toxic Mould infestation anywhere in a building, airborne Mould
spores from such Mould locations will usually enter and contaminate the
heating/cooling equipment and ducts, as well as the rest of the building.
·
Replace toxic Mould-infested heating/cooling
equipment and ducts if you can afford to do so. Otherwise, do repeated Mould
fogging with a Mould fogging machine and an EPA-registered fungicide (or an
effective Mould home remedy) into the return air duct while the system is
running on fan ventilation to deliver the fungicide to internal surfaces.
·
Do not paint over Mould problems. Mould loves to
eat paint as a snack.
·
Use a simple mixture of a 1/4 teaspoon of clove
oil (don't use more – it’s very powerful) to 1 liter of water as a Mould
killer and remover. Spray the mixture on the Mould and leave overnight. The
clove oil actually kills the spores rather than just "turning them
white" which is what bleach does in this situation.
·
If Mould
is a recurring problem, then consider creating more air movement
in the area. Air movement hastens evaporation and thus drying.
·
Look
into upgrading your home insulation. Sometimes, but not always, bad insulation
is the root of the problem. Walls and ceilings that are properly insulated will be less affected by condensation, and
therefore mould.
·
Wrap
and tape Mouldy carpeting in 6-mil plastic, and double-bag Mould-infested
debris in garbage bags for disposal.
·
Again,
never mix bleach with other cleaning products, such as ammonia, as that can
create a dangerous chemical reaction. Use biocides safely. Always read the
label and product information before use.
Fig. 16 Image:
safetypartnersltd.com
Before beginning to work in Mould-contaminated areas,
contain the Mouldy work area. (This contains the toxic Mould spores that will
be released into the air by opening up Mould-infested walls and ceilings) by
using wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling plastic sheeting as containment walls.
After installing air tight Mould containment walls, dry the
work area (especially if it is still wet from flooding or a now-fixed water
leak or roof leak) with one or more large dehumidifiers. Improper fan drying
can spread Mould spores to cross contaminate an entire building and its
heating/cooling system.
Mould Toxins (Mycotoxins)
Etymology of Mycotoxins
The term mycotoxin was coined in 1962 after an unusual veterinary crisis
near London, England, during which approximately 100,000 turkey poults died.
When this mysterious turkey X disease was linked to a peanut (groundnut) meal
contaminated with secondary metabolites from Aspergillus flavus (aflatoxins),
it sensitized scientists to the possibility that other occult Mould metabolites
might be deadly. Soon, the mycotoxin rubric was extended to include a number of
previously known fungal toxins (e.g., the ergot alkaloids), some compounds that
had originally been isolated as antibiotics (e.g., patulin), and a number
of new secondary metabolites revealed in screens targeted at mycotoxin
discovery (e.g., ochratoxin A).
Mycotoxins are secondary metabolites produced by microfungi that are capable of
causing disease and death in humans and other animals. Because of their
pharmacological activity, some mycotoxins or mycotoxin derivatives have found
use as antibiotics, growth promotants, and other kinds of drugs; still others
have been implicated as chemical warfare agents.
Mycoses and Mycotoxicoses, both of which comprise Mycotoxins, are major
plant and insect pathogens, but they are not nearly as important as agents of
disease in vertebrates, i.e., the number of medically important fungi is
relatively low. Growth of fungi on animal hosts produces the diseases collectively
called mycoses, while dietary, respiratory, dermal, and other exposures to
toxic fungal metabolites produce the diseases collectively called
mycotoxicoses.
Mycoses range from merely a nuisance (e.g., athlete's foot) to
life-threatening (e.g., invasive aspergillosis). The fungi that cause mycoses
can be divided into two categories, primary pathogens (e.g., Coccidioides
immitis and Histoplasma capsulatum) and opportunistic pathogens (e.g.,
Aspergillus fumigatus and Candida albicans). Primary pathogens affect otherwise
healthy individuals with normal immune systems. Opportunistic pathogens produce
illness by taking advantage of debilitated or immunocompromised hosts.
The majority of human mycoses are caused by opportunistic fungi. The
mechanisms of pathogenesis of both primary and opportunistic fungi are complex,
and medical mycologists have devoted considerable research energy trying to
identify the factors that distinguish fungal pathogens from saprophytic and
commensal species. Some infections remain localized, while others progress to
systemic infection. For many mycoses, the ordinary portal of entry is through
the pulmonary tract, but direct inoculation through skin contact is not
uncommon.
In contrast to mycoses, mycotoxicoses are examples of “poisoning by
natural means” and thus are analogous to the pathologies caused by exposure to
pesticides. The symptoms of a mycotoxicosis depend on the type of mycotoxin;
the amount and duration of the exposure; the age, health, and sex of the
exposed individual; and many poorly understood synergistic effects involving
genetics, dietary status, and interactions with other toxic insults. Thus, the
severity of mycotoxin poisoning can be compounded by factors such as vitamin
deficiency, caloric deprivation, alcohol abuse, and infectious disease status.
In turn, mycotoxicoses can heighten vulnerability to microbial diseases, worsen
the effects of malnutrition, and interact synergistically with other toxins.
Types of Mycotoxins
During the digestion of substrates, fungi secrete enzymes into nutrients in order to break down
complex compounds into simpler compounds that can be taken up by the fungi and
used as nutrition. These digested nutrients produce secondary metabolic
byproducts called mycotoxins that are released to give the fungi a competitive
edge over other microorganisms and fungi. Unfortunately, mycotoxins can also be
incredibly toxic to humans causing a variety of responses including cold/flu-like
symptoms, sore throats, headaches, nose bleeds, fatigue, diarrhea, dermatitis,
and immune suppression. Some mycotoxins may also be carcinogenic and
teratogenic.
Some types of mycotoxins are:
o Aflatoxins (produced by Aspergillus) -
includes Aflatoxin B1, B2, G1, G2, M1 and M2.
o Ochratoxin - includes Ochratoxin A, B, and C.
o Trichothecene (produced by Stachybotrys) -
includes Satratoxin-H, Vomitoxin and T-2 mycotoxins.
o Fumonisins - includes Fumonisin B1 and B2.
o Zearalenone.
Killing Mycotoxins
Mycotoxins aren't actually alive
like Mould spores. So when we talk about "killing mycotoxins" it
really means breaking down mycotoxins and their toxicity so they are no longer
dangerous to humans.
·
Bleach
with 5% sodium hypochlorite kills trichothecene mycotoxins as well as other
mycotoxins including aflatoxin.
·
It
takes fire at 500 degrees Fahrenheit (260 degrees Celsius) for half an hour or
fire at 900 degrees Fahrenheit (482 degrees Celsius) for 10 minutes to destroy
trichothecene mycotoxins.
·
Ozone
supposedly kills most or all mycotoxins, but the level of ozone needed to kill
mycotoxins is unsafe for humans. If you use an ozone generator there must be no
one in the house.
·
HEPA
air filters are not effective at removing mycotoxins. Activated carbon filters
can, however, remove mycotoxins from the air.
·
Mycotoxins
do eventually break down and lose their toxicity after some time. Some types of
mycotoxins can take several years though, e.g., trichothecene mycotoxins which
are among the most resilient.
Size of Mycotoxins: Like
Mould spores, mycotoxins are too small for us to see with the naked eye.
Mycotoxins are as small as 0.1 microns. Mould spores are between 1 and 20
microns. Human hair, for comparison, is about 100 microns thick.
How Mycotoxins Enter the Human Body: When people are around toxic Mould they are usually exposed to
airborne mycotoxins by breathing them in. These mycotoxins end up in the lungs
and cause breathing problems and other severe symptoms.
The symptoms caused by Stachybotrys (often called toxic black Mould) are many
and life-threatening. During 2004 in Kenya, 125 people died after eating maize
contaminated with aflatoxin mycotoxins. There have been many cases of pets
dying from eating pet food with mycotoxins in it as well.
Mycotoxins in the air can also enter through a person's eyes.
Trichothecene mycotoxins can be absorbed through the skin as well. Another way
mycotoxins get into a person's body is by the person eating food with
mycotoxins in it. This can happen if toxic Mould has been growing on crops. Many
mycotoxins, for example trichothecene, remain toxic even after being cooked.
This is one reason why mycotoxins are a big problem in agriculture. A binding
agent is used on crops such as grain after harvesting to remove mycotoxins.
How Long Mycotoxins are Toxic: According to experts, trichothecene
mycotoxins can remain toxic for several years. Trichothecenes are probably the
most long lasting mycotoxin. Things like ultraviolet light or freezing
temperatures do not have much effect on trichothecene mycotoxins.
The EPA says that trichothecene
toxins are very stable. Again the environment matters, if stored dry, there is
little loss of activity for a year.
Mycotoxin Treatment and Decontamination
The first thing you need to do is to remove yourself from the
environment where you were exposed to mycotoxins (e.g., move from the house
where toxic black Mould is growing) and not return unless the problem has been
remediated.
Bioterrorism experts advise that a person exposed to mycotoxins should
shower for a long period of time, washing himself thoroughly with soap and
water. The person should also shampoo their hair as often as possible since
hair can hold a large amount of mycotoxins. Ideally the person should cut their
hair, the shorter the better.
Safe Levels of Mycotoxins: In the United States the government has not yet set maximum levels for
mycotoxins in the air of buildings, however some European countries have set
limits. The health issues that Mould and toxic Moulds can cause are not yet
officially recognized everywhere medically and many doctors are unaware of the
symptoms Mould can cause. However the EPA has acknowledged that Mould growing
in homes is harmful to humans and that it should be removed.
Removing Mycotoxins from Carpets: Most mycotoxins from toxic Mould in houses usually end up embedded in
the carpet. When you walk on the carpet you stir up many of the mycotoxin
particles into the air, along with other spores and allergens. There is no way
to remove all mycotoxins from carpet and the only option is for the carpet to
be removed and replaced.
Vacuuming the carpet, even with a HEPA filtered vacuum, will not
suck up all of the mycotoxins embedded in the carpet. And even though HEPA
vacuum cleaners can trap Mould spores, the smaller mycotoxins will pass through
the vacuum cleaner and out the exhaust, increasing the amount of mycotoxins in
the air and hence worsening your toxic reaction.
Central vacuuming systems may help to remove some mycotoxins if the air
from the vacuum is exhausted outside the home, but again it will still not be
able to pick up all the mycotoxins embedded in the carpet.
Fig. 17 Image: familyhandyman.com
Microbial Volatile Organic Compounds
Microbial Volatile Organic Compounds (MVOCs)
are gases produced by Mould. The musty odor which you might smell from Mould
is caused by MVOCs. These odors are actually chemicals which are produced by Moulds
during some parts of the Mould's growth cycle, e.g., during growth on water-damaged
materials, many Moulds release low molecular weight
MVOCs as products of secondary metabolism. Several Moulds produce volatile
metabolites, which are a mixture of compounds that can be common to many
species, although some also produce compounds that are genera- or
species-specific. MVOCs are often similar to common industrial chemicals. Scientists
have identified more than 200 of these chemical compounds but the list is ever
expanding as the research continues.
When Does Mould Produce MVOCs?
Some Moulds produce different MVOCs
depending on conditions such as how much moisture is available and what
material the Mould is growing on. However MVOCs are produced only when Mould is actively growing. This is because MVOCs are the waste products created by Mould as it
grows. So if you can smell MVOCs from Mould it is a sign that Mould is actively
growing in your home and that you should remediate the Mould problem as soon as
possible.
The presence of many biological agents in
the indoor environment is also due to inadequate ventilation.
Bacteria and mould living on materials saturated with water bio degrade these
substrate materials and in the process release small of volatile chemicals,
fungal fragment and spores. Moreover, dampness initiates chemical or biological
degradation of materials, which also pollutes indoor air. Dampness has
therefore been suggested to be a strong, consistent indicator of risk of asthma
and respiratory symptoms (e.g., cough and wheeze). It is believed that mould
released volatiles have certain antifungal and cytotoxic properties. Because of
this it is possible that under some circumstances MVOCs may be partially
responsible for complaints ill health and degraded indoor air quality by
building occupants.
Even if you cannot see Mould, the musty
smell of MVOCs can alert you to the presence of Mould growing somewhere in your
home hidden from view. MVOCs can be damaging your health even if no Mould
growth is visible in your home.
Once Mould growth has been removed from a
home, some MVOCs may still be present as they can remain ingrained in permeable
items such as clothes, carpets, upholstered furniture and curtains. These Mouldy
odors can be hard to remove. Even HEPA filters cannot remove MVOCs from the air.
However, cleaning the items thoroughly along with plenty of fresh air and
sunlight should remove most of the odor eventually.
Moulds living on water damaged materials
release a multitude of volatile compounds. The most common ones are:
o
Alcohols
: 2-methyl-1–propane, 2-methyl-1–butanol, 3-methyl-1–butanol, 2—pentanol,
1-octen-3-ol, 7- octane-2–ol, 3–octanol, 1–decanol, 2- methyl isoborneole,
1-pentanol, Geosmin
o
Terpenes:
pipene, limonene,
o
Aldehydes:
Formaldehyde, acetaldehyde, Propanal, Butanal, Pentanal, Hexanal, Octanal
o
Ketons:
2-heptanone, 3-octanone, butanone, 2 pentanone, 2-hexanone, cyclohexanone
o
Furanes:
3- methyl furan, 2-methyl furan
o
Sulfur
compounds: dimethylsulfide
Limited evidence suggests that exposure to
low concentrations of VOCs may induce respiratory irritation independent of
exposure to allergenic particulate. Volatile organic compounds may also arise
through
indirect metabolic effects. The common use of urea formaldehyde foam
insulation as a cavity wall insulation and subsequent fungal attack and
degradation of this material can lead contamination of properties by
formaldehyde gas. Mould colonisation of this material results in releasing of
urea from the polymer. During this process formaldehyde evolves as a
derivative, causing a drop in indoor air quality.
Some Moulds and specifically Penicillium digitatum have evolved to
release metabolically active gas ethylene. This mould primarily attacks fruits.
If stored fruits are attacked by this fungus it releases ethylene gas which
accelerated the ripening process of other fruits thus making them more
susceptible to Mould attack.
Some penicillia are able to produce geosmin, a volatile compound giving
fungal or earthy odour to wine. P. expansum and P. carneum are the two most
recently identified species of mould capable of producing this compound when
growing on grapes.
Symptoms Caused by MVOCs: MVOCs can cause symptoms like headaches, nausea, dizziness and fatigue.
MVOCs may also irritate the eyes and the mucus membranes of the nose and
throat. However, because research on MVOCs is still at an early stage, not
everything is yet known about MVOCs and our reactions to them.
Not all Moulds generate MVOCs, and even Moulds that do generate MVOC's
don't do so all the time. If the humidity, temperature, light, and other
factors don't cause a particular MVOC-generating Mould to release this gas,
you're not going to detect it on the day of the inspection and test. Just
later. An interesting article is available online, dealing with the toxic effects of Mycotoxins on humans, sheep, and possibly on pets.
Mould Resources
As stated repeatedly, moisture control is the key to Mould control. The related EPA publication is available online in .PDF format. This Guide provides information and
guidance for homeowners and renters on how to clean up residential Mould
problems and how to prevent Mould growth.
Moisture problems and their solutions differ from one climate to
another. The Northeast is cold and wet; the Southwest is hot and dry; the South
is hot and wet; and the Western Mountain states are cold and dry. All of these
regions can have moisture problems. For example, evaporative coolers used in
the Southwest can encourage the growth of biological pollutants. In other hot
regions, the use of air conditioners which cool the air too quickly may prevent
the air conditioners from running long enough to remove excess moisture from
the air. The types of construction and weatherization for the different
climates can lead to different problems and solutions.
Your humidistat is set too high if excessive moisture collects on
windows and other cold surfaces. Excess humidity for a prolonged time can
damage walls especially when outdoor air temperatures are very low. Humidifiers
are not recommended for use in buildings without proper vapor barriers due
potential damage from moisture buildup. Consult a professional to determine the
adequacy of the vapor barrier in your house. Use a humidity indicator to
measure the relative humidity in your house. The American Society of Heating
and Air Conditioning Engineers recommends these maximum indoor humidity levels:
|
Temperature Outdoors °F
|
Indoor Relative Humidity
Percentage
|
|
+20
|
35
|
|
+10
|
30
|
|
0
|
25
|
|
-10
|
20
|
|
-20
|
15
|
Chart 1
How to Identify the Cause of a Mould Problem
Mould is commonly found on the exterior wall surfaces of corner rooms in
heating climate locations. An exposed corner room is likely to be significantly
colder than adjoining rooms, so that it has a higher relative humidity (RH)
than other rooms at the same water vapor pressure. If Mould growth is found in
a corner room, then relative humidity next to the room surfaces is above 70%.
However, is the RH above 70% at the surfaces because the room is too cold or
because there is too much moisture present (high water vapor pressure)?
The amount of moisture in the room can be estimated by measuring both
temperature and RH at the same location and at the same time. Suppose there are
two cases. In the first case, assume that the RH is 30 percent and the temperature is 70oF in the middle of the room. The
low RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure (or absolute
humidity) is low. The high surface RH is probably due to room surfaces that are
"too cold." Temperature is the dominating factor, and control
strategies should involve increasing the temperature at cold room surfaces
(ibid).
In the second case, assume that the RH is 50 percent and the temperature is 70oF in the middle of the room. The
higher RH at that temperature indicates that the water vapor pressure is high
and there is a relatively large amount of moisture in the air. The high surface
RH is probably due to air that is "too moist." Humidity is the
dominating factor, and control strategies should involve decreasing the
moisture content of the indoor air.
Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned?
o
There
is substantial visible Mould growth inside hard surface (e.g., sheet metal)
ducts or on other components of your heating and cooling system. There are
several important points to understand concerning Mould detection in heating
and cooling systems:
o
Many
sections of your heating and cooling system may not be accessible for a visible
inspection, so ask the service provider to show you any Mould they say exists.
o
You
should be aware that although a substance may look like Mould, determination of
whether it is Mould or not can be made only by an expert and may require
laboratory analysis for final confirmation. For about $50, some microbiology
laboratories can tell you whether a sample sent to them on a clear strip of
sticky household tape is Mould or simply a substance that resembles it.
o
If you
have insulated air ducts and the insulation gets wet or Mouldy it cannot be
effectively cleaned and should be removed and replaced.
o
If the
conditions causing the Mould growth in the first place are not corrected, Mould
growth will recur.
Common Moisture Sources Found in Schools
Moisture problems in school buildings can be caused by a variety of
conditions, including roof and plumbing leaks, condensation, and excess
humidity. Some moisture problems in schools have been linked to changes in
building construction practices during the past twenty to thirty years. These
changes have resulted in more tightly sealed buildings that may not allow
moisture to escape easily. Moisture problems in schools are also associated
with delayed maintenance or insufficient maintenance, due to budget and other
constraints. Temporary structures in schools, such as trailers and portable
classrooms, have frequently been associated with moisture and Mould problems.
Flooding
Dealing with Mould Problems After a Flood:
It is known that Mould spores germinate and grow best in a moist or damp
environment on any surface that contains organic matter for its food. A home
that’s been flooded can provide ideal conditions for the growth and
proliferation of Mould.
Why is Mould a Concern?
§
Indoor Mould
can trigger allergies or allergy-like symptoms affecting the upper respiratory
system, as already seen, although other, more serious problems can also occur
if people are exposed to very high levels of Mould. In addition to ailments, Mould
damages building materials, goods, or furnishings when it grows on them. Mould
growth and moisture may well compromise the building’s structural integrity.
§
Expect
a Mould problem: investigate – don’t test: After a flood, the most practical
and reliable tools for detecting a Mould problem are your eyes and nose. If you
see something that looks like Mould, or you detect an earthy or musty smell,
assume a Mould problem exists. The presence of moisture or worsening
allergy-like symptoms also point to a Mould problem.
When You Check for Mould, Be Sure To:
§
Look
for visible Mould growth. Mould often appears as staining, discoloration, or
fuzzy growth on the surface of building materials or furnishings. Search areas
with noticeable Mould odors.
§
Look
for signs of excess moisture or water damage.
§
Look
for water leaks, standing water, water stains, and condensation. Do you see any
watermarks or discoloration on walls, ceilings, carpet, woodwork or other
building materials? Search behind and underneath materials (carpet and pad,
wallpaper, vinyl flooring, sink cabinets), furniture, or stored items.
§
Sometimes
destructive techniques may be needed to inspect and clean enclosed spaces where
Mould and moisture are hidden − opening up a wall cavity, for example. Be sure
to use protective equipment described earlier (pp 49-50).
Mould Testing: Expensive but Probably Not Cost Effective:
People often have unrealistic expectations about what testing can
accomplish, and are easily persuaded that it needs to be done. But Mould
testing is expensive, and it may or may not tell you what you need to know.
Before you’re tempted to have any testing done, try to check for possible Mould
problems on your own. The basic task is always to (a) find the location of any Mould
growth, and (b) determine the source of the moisture that’s allowing the Mould
to grow. If you see or smell Mould, you don’t need to test for it; have it cleaned
up instead.
Protect Yourself:
People with health problems or sensitivity to Mould should not do
clean-up work where there is heavy Mould growth, or a high risk of disturbing
materials contaminated with Mould. People who are in poor physical condition
should be wary about doing heavy work while wearing a respirator.
If you plan to enter a Mouldy environment, especially where Mouldy
materials are being disturbed, you should use a respirator to protect your
health. At a minimum, you should use an N95 or an N100 type disposable
respirator. Greater respiratory protection may be more appropriate where Mould
growth is heavy or covers an extensive area. More protective options include
half-face negative-air respirators with a HEPA filter (i.e., N100, P100) or
supplied air respirators such as a powered air purifying respirator. The
following additional precautions are recommended when working with Mouldy
materials:
§
Wear
eye goggles that seal out fine dust-like materials.
§
Wear
outer clothing (long-sleeved shirts and long pants) that can be easily removed
before leaving the work area, and later laundered or discarded.
§
Do not
eat, drink or smoke in the contaminated area, since disease-causing organisms
from sewage or floodwater may be present.
The Basic Steps-A Reiteration.
1.
Identify
and remove any sources of moisture. This is the most important – and the most
basic – thing you need to do. Mould can’t grow without moisture.
2.
Begin
drying any and all materials that got wet. Do this as soon as possible after
the floodwaters have receded, using ALL means available.
3.
Remove
and dispose of Mould-contaminated materials, including carpets.
4.
Cut
away wet wallboard and remove all wet insulation right away, even if appears
dry.
5.
Disinfect
surfaces to avoid spreading Mould contamination.
6.
As you are
cleaning up, avoid spreading Mould spores: Enclose Mouldy items in plastic
(bags or sheets) before you carry them out. When transporting Mouldy materials,
use the shortest path into and out of the building. Hang plastic sheeting to
seal off the work area. Remove the outer layer of work clothes before leaving
the work area. Bag contaminated clothes or wash them separately. Damp clean all
surfaces in and around the work area to remove any fine dust.
7.
Take
photographs to document damages for insurance purposes, and get started. It is not wise to wait for the adjuster to
see it in person. Most homeowner insurance policies do not cover Mould damages
or clean-up costs.
8.
Speed
the drying of subfloors, slabs and wall framing before replacing insulation,
wallboard and flooring.
9.
Never
mix bleach with ammonia.
Moulds in Our Environment
Moulds are found everywhere in the environment, both indoors and
outdoors, and throughout the year. Outdoor Mould spores begin to increase as temperatures rise in the spring. In the
United States, Mould spores reach their peak in July in warmer states and
October in the colder states. They can be found year-round in the South and on
the West Coast.
Moulds cause allergic symptoms in many people. As is known, common reactions to Moulds include nasal
stuffiness, eye irritation, or wheezing when breathing. More severe reactions
may occur among workers, such as farmers, who are exposed to large amounts of Moulds
in occupational settings, including fever or shortness of breath. Mould
infections may occur in the lungs of persons with obstructive lung disease.
Therefore, Mould exposure should be decreased.
Outdoors: Avoid areas that are likely to have Mould, such as:
·
Compost
piles
·
Cut
grass
·
Wooded
areas
·
Damp,
mossy areas
·
Greenhouses
·
Antique
shops
·
Saunas
·
Construction
areas
·
Mills
·
Flower
shops
·
Summer
cottages
Indoors: Apart from the
measures already discussed, try to
·
Use a
dehumidifier during humid months.
·
Avoid
use carpet in susceptible areas such as bathrooms or basements.
·
Fix
leaks in roofs, walls, and/or plumbing to eliminate moisture.
·
Add a Mould
inhibitor to paint when painting
According to FEMA, one of the most serious results of water damage from
a hurricane or severe floods is Mould. The Center for Disease
Control and Prevention
(CDC) adds that Moulds can be recognized from sight, wall or ceiling
discoloration, and a bad odor or musty smell. Both FEMA and CDC warn returning
to water damaged homes after a disaster may pose serious health threat,
especially to people who already have preexisting respiratory conditions,
pregnant women, children, elderly, and those persons with immuno-compromised
diseases.
FEMA and CDC have developed
specific guidelines for clean-up of water related disasters. Please consult
your doctor with any questions or concerns you may have regarding this
condition. You could also refer to Canada’s official position on the health risks posed by Mould, based
on a review of the best scientific information available.